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Stuart R
(Scunnered) - F

Locale: Scotland
MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 11:42:12 MDT Print View

I wanted a lightweight inverted canister stove that is easy to operate. I specifcally wanted the control valve to be easily accessible and give good flame control. This meant that the control valve needed to be on the stove itself, not at the canister like all commercial remote canister stoves.

I took a F1 Spirit canister mounted stove and made a vapouriser tube and legs, and added a fuel hose from a Brunton stove stand. Total weight is 155g

F1 remote canister stove

F1 in pot

Ken Thompson
(kthompson) - MLife

Locale: Behind the Redwood Curtain
MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 11:52:42 MDT Print View

Sweet. How did you manage the vaporizer tube?

Stuart R
(Scunnered) - F

Locale: Scotland
Vapouriser tube on 03/14/2010 13:30:15 MDT Print View

Hi, the vapouriser tube is #13 gauge stainless steel 'hypodermic' tubing bent to the required shape.

cheers S

Roger Caffin
(rcaffin) - BPL Staff - MLife

Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe
Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 14:29:03 MDT Print View

Hi Stuart

Very nice! I am especially impressed with the heat exchanger arrangement.
And I 100% agree with the desire to have a control valve at the burner after the heat exchanger too.

Cheers

Tony Beasley
(tbeasley) - MLife

Locale: Pigeon House Mt from the Castle
Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 14:48:28 MDT Print View

Hi Stuart,

Very nice, extremely impressed with your high quality workmanship.

Tony

Franco Darioli
(Franco) - M

Locale: Melbourne
MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 15:45:47 MDT Print View

I am very impressed too.
I had to take a close look at the F1 just to remind myself why I could not do it.
OK, now I am depressed.
Franco

Stuart R
(Scunnered) - F

Locale: Scotland
Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 16:13:09 MDT Print View

Thanks guys - and thanks for the inspiration provided by yourselves and fellow contributors to this forum.

Franco - it's not too hard to do with just some basic hand tools like hand drill, a saw and file, some taps and a bench vise

Edited by Scunnered on 03/15/2010 02:54:12 MDT.

Franco Darioli
(Franco) - M

Locale: Melbourne
MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/14/2010 16:34:00 MDT Print View

I failed playdough at kindy...
Franco

Stuart R
(Scunnered) - F

Locale: Scotland
Re: Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/16/2010 03:01:04 MDT Print View

Hi Roger

I hadn't thought of the vapouriser tube as a heat exchanger but you're right of course. Which then leads to the obvious question - how much heat is required to be exchanged?

The answer is just 0.8% of the stove's heat output - from the latent heat of vapourisation divided by the heat of combustion (butane and propane give much the same figure).

I need to move the vapouriser tube a little further away from the flame to get less heat coupling...

cheers S

Roger Caffin
(rcaffin) - BPL Staff - MLife

Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe
Re: Re: Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/16/2010 03:52:02 MDT Print View

Hi Stuart

You are right that very little heat is required in practice - see my article on using a Brunton Stove Stand with a strip of copper as a heat exchanger. In that case the gas goes nowhere near the flame even.

However, I wouldn't sorry about moving the vapouriser tube away - it really doesn't matter if it runs red hot! Take a look at the huge vapouriser tube on an XGK! All that can happen is that the hydrocarbon chain might start to break down inside where the tube is red hot - but it has to break down somewhere for the stuff to burn anyhow.

Cheers

Rog Tallbloke
(tallbloke) - F

Locale: DON'T LOOK DOWN!!
Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/16/2010 07:06:19 MDT Print View

Neat job!

Has anyone come up with a neat clamp/fuel take off for a cigarette lighter refiller yet?

Stuart R
(Scunnered) - F

Locale: Scotland
Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/16/2010 07:08:53 MDT Print View

Agreed it doesn't really matter if the vapouriser tube gets red hot, but the hotter it gets the more heat is conducted down the tube to the rest of the stove which can then become a bit too hot to handle after running for a while. That is all I am trying to reduce - I never like to settle for something that can easily be improved...

Cheers S

Tony Beasley
(tbeasley) - MLife

Locale: Pigeon House Mt from the Castle
Re: Re: MYOG F1 remote canister conversion on 03/16/2010 15:31:52 MDT Print View

Hi Rog,

>Has anyone come up with a neat clamp/fuel take off for a cigarette lighter refiller yet?

I am not sure if this is what you mean.

<center>
Small canister stove

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Edited by tbeasley on 03/16/2010 15:38:25 MDT.

. Callahan
(AeroNautiCal) - M

Locale: Stoke Newington, London, UK.
Lighter Fuel Clamp. on 03/18/2010 15:30:25 MDT Print View

"Has anyone come up with a neat clamp/fuel take off for a cigarette lighter refiller yet?"


They have! As I recall, a member in Japan made a great little clamp which fitted on butane cylinders of the size which fitted into curling tongs.

It was excellent! (o:

Stuart R
(Scunnered) - F

Locale: Scotland
Thermal effects on 03/19/2010 11:13:42 MDT Print View

Through my work on making this and another stove, I have realised something I hadn't before: the type of metal used for the mixer tube has a large effect on the heat conducted from the burner to the stove base.

Aluminium has a very high thermal conductivity (240 W/K/m), so stoves made from aluminium, such as this one, conduct a fair amount of heat to the base.

On the other hand, a previous stove made using a Pocket Rocket has a steel mixer tube which has a much lower thermal conductivity (43 W/K/m) and so much less heat is conducted to the base.

This effect might be useful in a canister mounted stove: a aluminium stove might conduct a useful amount of heat to the canister and help to keep the contents warm in marginal conditions.

Edited by Scunnered on 03/21/2010 06:55:17 MDT.