Reader Reviews

Rating: 4 / 5

I recently went on a backpacking trip that required several rappels. I wanted to minimize my overall weight because we needed to make good time while bushwhacking without a trail. I chose this minimal harness. It worked very well. According to the web site I read, the size chart put me into a large. It was too big, I needed to downsize to a medium. The medium weighs just 92grams. Although the harness wasn't as comfortable as my Black Diamond Momentum AL, it wasn't at all bad. I recommend it.

Rating: 4 / 5

When it comes to climbing, and the increased risks it confers relative to backpacking, I think its best not to choose ultralight over safety. This amazingly light harness is still UIAA/CE certified. Nonetheless, there isn't the padding you're used to on a typical harness (eg. BD Bod, Alpine Bod). A lot of rappels or a hard fall might be uncomfortable.

I like it as a safety harness where you're not expecting to rappel but want to be roped on just in case. Split between 4 and 5 stars depending on its use.

Rating: 5 / 5

After using this harness for two days of training on snow (but not a real glacier) and a few indoor practice sessions, I finally used it for real the last two days on Mt Baker. (We hiked up to the base of Railroad Grade Monday night, skinned & climbed up to Grant Peak Tuesday then skied and eventually hiked all the way back down to the trailhead, car camped Tueday night, then switched partners to hike & skin up to Sherman Peak Wednesday then ski almost all the way back down.)
For glacier ski mountaineering, where roping up only for crevasse danger (and not for planning to rap down some super-sketch "discontinuous" ski route), I think this harness is perfect. So light & comfy feels like it isn't even there. However, fit can be an issue, since the leg loops are not adjustable, so if your thigh circumference doesn't match up with the waist range Camp thinks you should have, then you might be out of luck.

Rating: 5 / 5

As a gram weenie I couldn't pass up a 3.5 oz harness. If I'm going to spend the day at hanging belays or there is a good chance of falls, I'll take my 15 oz Black Diamond Momentum AL. For long, easy routes and most backcountry climbs with long approaches, this is my tool of choice.

Regretfully I did test it on a 40 foot whipper last June on Charlotte Dome. After it absorbed most of the fall's energy, I protected it from the final KNs by thoughtfully decking out on a ledge. It did it's job.

WARNING: As there is no adjustability this harness must fit close. I lost a few pounds and had to replace my large with a medium. I had added hip racking loops for my tricams on my large(additional 6 grams) which started peeling the harness off my hips!