Reader Reviews

Rating: 5 / 5

This is the default reference manual for all things climbing and mountaineering, even seeing use as a standard text book for most mountaineering and climbing instruction. It is an excellent reference manual indeed. It is useful not just to those who plan on climbing big peaks, but to everyone who plans any type of winter travel and camping, and to anyone who ever needed to rope up when crossing some particularly nasty bit of trail. Indeed, it is a useful reference guide for anyone who engages in backcountry activities, with very good sections on camping and bivy techniques, food and water, gear for the outdoors, and even expedition planning (which is a useful section whether planning the next winter 8000M summit push, or your next weeklong relaxing hiking trip). All in all, a comprehensive and well written reference that surpasses all others in the genre.

Rating: 5 / 5

I own the latest edition, and it was a revelation to read. I wish I had known about it years ago. If any book can claim to describe the standard operating procedures for mountaineering, this is it, according to sources more knowledgeable than me.

This being said, it is very traditional and 'old school' in its writing style and recommendations compared to Connally's The Mountaineering Handbook. One example is how the First anchors then belays the Second. I could give more examples, but I suggest beginners like myself read them both and make their own decisions.

Rating: 5 / 5

I discovered this book in the 1970's while living in Seattle. It was the bible of mountaineering back then, and the latest edition is the bible now.

If you are interested in technical mountaineering, read this book first, even if you know nothing about the subject. While it doesn't cover all the latest, fanciest techniques, it is quite comprehensive and does describe the tried-and-true techniques that will always work.

You cannot go wrong with this book!