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Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 2

Carol Crooker talks with Matt Hage and Agnes Stowe who have just returned from their summit attempt of Denali. A successful trip going ultralight.

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by Carol Crooker | 2007-06-12 03:00:00-06

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Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 2

Matt Hage and Agnes Stowe are back from their Denali expedition. They traveled in lightweight style, never carrying more than 30 pounds in their packs. This trip was Matt's fourth time on Denali and Agnes' first. Both are in high spirits and truly enjoyed their experience. Even though they were held back by bad weather for a week at the 14,000 foot camp, their tale is in stark contrast to the misery experienced by many Denali expeditioners who haul 60 plus pound packs up the mountain.

In this podcast Matt and Agnes discuss the progression of their ascent, Guinness at 14,000 feet, other climbers' comments about their "porch," and the lightweight gear that worked for them and the gear they would replace on a second attempt.

To learn more about Matt, visit his web page here.


Citation

"Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 2," by Carol Crooker. BackpackingLight.com (ISSN 1537-0364).
http://backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/podcast_061107_doing_denali_light_part_2.html, 2007-06-12 03:00:00-06.

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Forum Index » Editor's Roundtable » Doing Denali Light


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Benjamin Smith
( bugbomb - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
South Texas
Doing Denali Light on 05/22/2007 21:03:07 MDT Print View

Companion forum thread to:

Doing Denali Light

Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 1

Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 2

Edited by bugbomb on 06/12/2007 22:36:35 MDT.

Jonathan Ryan
( Jkrew81 - M )

Locale:
White Mtns
Great Podcast on 05/23/2007 12:36:01 MDT Print View

Great podcast today guys. I am always looking for ways to lighten my winter kit so any kind of insight is always appreciated. Any chance on posting the gearlist for this trip?

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
Gear list on 05/23/2007 18:39:09 MDT Print View

We may be able to get a gear list post-trip.

Brett .
( Brett1234 )

Locale:
Japan
re:Doing Denali Light on 05/30/2007 03:37:48 MDT Print View

Any word on how the trip is going?

edit: Thank you Carol

Edited by Brett1234 on 05/30/2007 20:18:52 MDT.

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
Re: re:Doing Denali Light on 05/30/2007 04:35:45 MDT Print View

No word yet from Matt and Agnes. They planned to check in some time between May 26-29.

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
14,00 feet check in on 06/03/2007 11:15:02 MDT Print View

Matt left me a message on May 31 from Camp Four at 14K feet, located just below the Headwall. He sounded great! We weren't able to connect for an interview. Camp Four is traditionally a place to rest for a few days to acclimatize and then head to High Camp.

Edited by cmcrooker on 06/03/2007 11:16:11 MDT.

Ryan Jordan
( ryan - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Greater Yellowstone
Update from Denali Ultralight on 06/04/2007 11:46:12 MDT Print View

Matt left us an email yesterday with a brief update:

"We just flew off the Kahiltna this morning ending our 14-day Denali trip. Ags and I had a great time on the West Buttress this season. We got to weather out some serious storms with interesting people, put some gear through the ringer and push our limits both physically and mentally. Our project was the talk of camp up there in May. We set-up our 8x10 siltarp in what we called front-porch mode at 14, 300 ft camp. Everyone stopped by for tea on the porch. We did sorely underestimate the need for a full sized shovel on that mountain. Digging out camp with the snow claws was quite a process. But a full trip report it to come shortly.

Sorry that we couldn't connect on the route. Our two weeks was plagued by severe storm systems that wreaked havoc on cell phones and sat phone connections. I did manage to get a call through on a sat phone during one of the calmer days. We spent a full week at camp 3 (14,300 ft) trying to gain passage to the upper mountain. But high winds, no visibility and very low temps (the trifecta) beat us down on three attempts. We finally ran out of time on Sat and headed down with a lenticular still on the summit and a forecast that a 'real' storm system was due on Monday. That was very hard on the psyche, especially since we were cruising up the mountain for the whole first week. A great intro to big mountains for Agnes."

Henry Liu
( henryliu )
gear list on 06/04/2007 18:28:30 MDT Print View

Bummer it didn't work out. Can we get the gear list? I'm interested how they travelled so light.

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
Gear List on 06/04/2007 19:59:47 MDT Print View

Matt and Agnes will be submitting a trip report including gear list and photos. Matt will also do a wrap up podcast with me.

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
Too light on 06/05/2007 12:54:51 MDT Print View

I'd be very interested to know what systems they found were too light or not up to snuff for a real mountain.

I'd like to avoid any mistakes.

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
Too Light on 06/05/2007 13:48:08 MDT Print View

Hi Robert,
That is on my list of questions for the podcast.

Henry Liu
( henryliu )
time? on 06/10/2007 22:25:36 MDT Print View

Any idea when the interview is taking place?

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
2nd Denali interview on 06/10/2007 22:42:59 MDT Print View

I interviewed Matt and Agnes post trip on Friday night. We'll hopefully have it ready to publish this Tuesday.

Henry Liu
( henryliu )
interview on 06/11/2007 21:07:53 MDT Print View

Awesome. Looking forward to it. I feel a shopping spree coming on when the gear list comes out :)

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
Gear list on 06/13/2007 07:46:30 MDT Print View

Great podcast, thanks Carol.

Would it be possible to get a full, skin out, gear list from Matt?

I'm especially interested in his food choices and the little luxuries he brought for camp life.

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
Gear list on 06/13/2007 14:46:41 MDT Print View

Matt is submitting a gear list and trip report for publishing.

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
Gone fishin' on 06/21/2007 13:30:01 MDT Print View

Ahhh... the perils of the post-expedition follow-up :)

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
The not-so-heavy cost of sponsorship on 07/04/2007 07:19:57 MDT Print View

*cough*

Henry Liu
( henryliu )
gearlist on 07/09/2007 06:25:11 MDT Print View

Any ETA on the gear list? Thanks.

Kathy Bartosh
( sumo - M )

Locale:
Third rock from the sun
Re: Update from Denali Ultralight on 07/11/2007 09:04:30 MDT Print View

C'est la vie.

You live and learn from these attempts and hopefully the next attempt will be successful.

John Shannon
( jshann - M )

Locale:
North Texas
Re: gearlist on 07/21/2007 06:11:50 MDT Print View

I'm beginning to think you won't see a gearlist. Why use the 5 letters ULTRA (as in ultralight) anywhere in a report mentioning a Denali summit when we all know that nobody can do that with less than 12 pounds base weight? The three to five pound sled immediately makes that an impossibility.

Edited by jshann on 07/21/2007 06:14:36 MDT.

Carol Crooker
( cmcrooker - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
Desert Southwest, USA
Gearlist on 07/21/2007 09:04:43 MDT Print View

Hi John,
Matt and Agnes submitted a gear list yesterday. They are working on the trip report. Baseweight in their packs was about 21 lbs. More was carried on their sleds of course.

Benjamin Smith
( bugbomb - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
South Texas
Re: Re: gearlist on 07/23/2007 21:04:42 MDT Print View

Hi John,

I think that this article demonstrates the necessary flexibility of all types of lite, from ultra to uber. As some posters (Vick Hines, Michael Wands) have pointed out, in south Texas (my neck of the woods) sub-5 is NOT SUL. You can walk out your door with a poncho and a water bottle and be just fine - if you even think you'll need the poncho - through three seasons. By the same token, if you dare wade back through this thread, you'll find a similar discussion - is SUL actually sub-6 if it's winter? Taken to the extreme, and a baseweight that is double the typical UL load might still make the UL "cut" in conditions as extreme as Denali's.

Maybe our criteria is percentage of a standard load? I don't know how you determine the "standard" load, but that's one way to approach it, or at least think about it.

And yes, Matt and Agnes' gearlist will be up soon!

Your thoughts?

Jon Rhoderick
( hotrhoddudeguy - M )

Locale:
New England
Gear list on 07/24/2007 20:32:03 MDT Print View

Sorry to be an giddy impatient child ... I mean respected member, but is it coming on this week?
Jon

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
Re: Gearlist on 08/02/2007 14:00:15 MDT Print View

Are we there yet ?

...


...




how about now ?

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
list list list mfn' list on 08/21/2007 01:01:05 MDT Print View

Any time now ?

Henry Liu
( henryliu )
gearlist on 08/21/2007 23:48:23 MDT Print View

Any updates on publishing the gearlist? That earlier comment said it was submitted a month ago but still no updates.

Brett .
( Brett1234 )

Locale:
Japan
Doing Denali Light on 08/22/2007 02:03:56 MDT Print View

Guys and Gals,
It takes less than a day to document a gear list. If they were going to do it they would have long ago.
I think we can just let this thread die a natural death and stop the annoying 'bumps' to the top of the que.
..oops, I just bumped it; but hopefully for the last time.

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
Sink his raft on 08/27/2007 18:15:08 MDT Print View

I hear ya Brett,

Thought I could maybe shame then into slashing Matt's packraft so he'd be forced to provide that list that was initially promised... and then promised again.


Oops, did I just bump this again? Damn... sorry !

Benjamin Smith
( bugbomb - BPL STAFF - M )

Locale:
South Texas
Re: Sink his raft on 08/27/2007 18:27:51 MDT Print View

Hey guys, I'll reply to this thread too (there was another one with similar comments). The gearlist is in my hands - the hangup at this point is ME. Sorry it has taken so long!

Robert Mohid
( mohid )
Can't find it on 08/28/2007 14:40:23 MDT Print View

No problem,

So where did you post it Benjamin?

I don't see it in the original article...

Christopher Plesko
( Pivvay )

Locale:
Rocky Mountains
Re: Can't find it on 11/18/2007 07:55:00 MST Print View

Nevermind i found it...

Edited by Pivvay on 11/18/2007 08:00:12 MST.