EXPEDITION: Climbing Denali - Ultralight

Companion forum thread to:

Doing Denali Light

Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 1

Podcast: Doing Denali Light Part 2

Edited by bugbomb on 06/12/2007 22:36:35 MDT.

Great podcast today guys. I am always looking for ways to lighten my winter kit so any kind of insight is always appreciated. Any chance on posting the gearlist for this trip?

We may be able to get a gear list post-trip.

Any word on how the trip is going?

edit: Thank you Carol

Edited by Brett1234 on 05/30/2007 20:18:52 MDT.

No word yet from Matt and Agnes. They planned to check in some time between May 26-29.

Matt left me a message on May 31 from Camp Four at 14K feet, located just below the Headwall. He sounded great! We weren't able to connect for an interview. Camp Four is traditionally a place to rest for a few days to acclimatize and then head to High Camp.

Edited by cmcrooker on 06/03/2007 11:16:11 MDT.

Matt left us an email yesterday with a brief update:

"We just flew off the Kahiltna this morning ending our 14-day Denali trip. Ags and I had a great time on the West Buttress this season. We got to weather out some serious storms with interesting people, put some gear through the ringer and push our limits both physically and mentally. Our project was the talk of camp up there in May. We set-up our 8x10 siltarp in what we called front-porch mode at 14, 300 ft camp. Everyone stopped by for tea on the porch. We did sorely underestimate the need for a full sized shovel on that mountain. Digging out camp with the snow claws was quite a process. But a full trip report it to come shortly.

Sorry that we couldn't connect on the route. Our two weeks was plagued by severe storm systems that wreaked havoc on cell phones and sat phone connections. I did manage to get a call through on a sat phone during one of the calmer days. We spent a full week at camp 3 (14,300 ft) trying to gain passage to the upper mountain. But high winds, no visibility and very low temps (the trifecta) beat us down on three attempts. We finally ran out of time on Sat and headed down with a lenticular still on the summit and a forecast that a 'real' storm system was due on Monday. That was very hard on the psyche, especially since we were cruising up the mountain for the whole first week. A great intro to big mountains for Agnes."

Bummer it didn't work out. Can we get the gear list? I'm interested how they travelled so light.

Matt and Agnes will be submitting a trip report including gear list and photos. Matt will also do a wrap up podcast with me.

I'd be very interested to know what systems they found were too light or not up to snuff for a real mountain.

I'd like to avoid any mistakes.

Hi Robert,
That is on my list of questions for the podcast.

Any idea when the interview is taking place?

I interviewed Matt and Agnes post trip on Friday night. We'll hopefully have it ready to publish this Tuesday.

Awesome. Looking forward to it. I feel a shopping spree coming on when the gear list comes out :)

Great podcast, thanks Carol.

Would it be possible to get a full, skin out, gear list from Matt?

I'm especially interested in his food choices and the little luxuries he brought for camp life.

Matt is submitting a gear list and trip report for publishing.

Ahhh... the perils of the post-expedition follow-up :)

*cough*

Any ETA on the gear list? Thanks.

C'est la vie.

You live and learn from these attempts and hopefully the next attempt will be successful.

I'm beginning to think you won't see a gearlist. Why use the 5 letters ULTRA (as in ultralight) anywhere in a report mentioning a Denali summit when we all know that nobody can do that with less than 12 pounds base weight? The three to five pound sled immediately makes that an impossibility.

Edited by jshann on 07/21/2007 06:14:36 MDT.

Hi John,
Matt and Agnes submitted a gear list yesterday. They are working on the trip report. Baseweight in their packs was about 21 lbs. More was carried on their sleds of course.

Hi John,

I think that this article demonstrates the necessary flexibility of all types of lite, from ultra to uber. As some posters (Vick Hines, Michael Wands) have pointed out, in south Texas (my neck of the woods) sub-5 is NOT SUL. You can walk out your door with a poncho and a water bottle and be just fine - if you even think you'll need the poncho - through three seasons. By the same token, if you dare wade back through this thread, you'll find a similar discussion - is SUL actually sub-6 if it's winter? Taken to the extreme, and a baseweight that is double the typical UL load might still make the UL "cut" in conditions as extreme as Denali's.

Maybe our criteria is percentage of a standard load? I don't know how you determine the "standard" load, but that's one way to approach it, or at least think about it.

And yes, Matt and Agnes' gearlist will be up soon!

Your thoughts?

Sorry to be an giddy impatient child ... I mean respected member, but is it coming on this week?
Jon

Are we there yet ?

...


...




how about now ?

Any time now ?

Any updates on publishing the gearlist? That earlier comment said it was submitted a month ago but still no updates.

Guys and Gals,
It takes less than a day to document a gear list. If they were going to do it they would have long ago.
I think we can just let this thread die a natural death and stop the annoying 'bumps' to the top of the que.
..oops, I just bumped it; but hopefully for the last time.

I hear ya Brett,

Thought I could maybe shame then into slashing Matt's packraft so he'd be forced to provide that list that was initially promised... and then promised again.


Oops, did I just bump this again? Damn... sorry !

Hey guys, I'll reply to this thread too (there was another one with similar comments). The gearlist is in my hands - the hangup at this point is ME. Sorry it has taken so long!

No problem,

So where did you post it Benjamin?

I don't see it in the original article...

Nevermind i found it...

Edited by Pivvay on 11/18/2007 08:00:12 MST.