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MYOG 30-35L pack
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Robert Dusing
(morob325) - F

Locale: texas
MYOG 30-35L pack on 01/18/2014 13:43:04 MST Print View

Finally finished a pack I'd been slowly working on over a couple weeks. 210D dyneema x for most of the pack with leno mesh, 3d spacer mesh, some 400D reinforcement and a little 70D making an appearance. The design is basically the same as a modified ion I made a few years ago that has sort of fallen apart and smells of cat urine. For this one I opted to make my own frame instead of using the GG one from my previous pack. The frame is made from the .340" poles from quest and weighs about 2.5 oz. Total pack weight is 20.6oz which I'm very happy with considering I wasn't exactly minimalist with the features.
from the front
backside
frame attachment and bladder hang loop
decorative stitch from my singer 500a that I used in a couple places for that custom look
frame, 21 x 9 inches I think

I'm pretty proud of how well the shoulder straps and their pockets turned out. I was able to make the pockets big enough to hold my garmin foretrex comfortably and the zippers can be used one-handed. Also, nothing but the perimeter stitching is sewn through the 3d-mesh. I don't like when bartacks make an uncomfortable lump that can sit right on your collarbone. Everything was secured to the dyneema x before it was sewn to the mesh.

On this and my other pack, I made lumbar support by crudely sewing 3dmesh over a couple strips of 3/8" foam. The main two pieces of the hipbelt are attached to this with double thick leno mesh about 3-4 inches wide. This is my way of getting some airflow to the hotter parts of my back/waist. The rest of the hipbelt each has a piece of 3/8" foam and there are no bartacks going through this either. Hopefully the dyneema will be able to handle the stress on it's own. The hipbelt pockets could be deeper for more volume.

Things I would change would be to make a wider top pocket, and a taller and wider front pocket. The front pocket is pretty tough to jam anything in when the pack is full.

todd harper
(funnymoney) - MLife

Locale: Sunshine State
Re: MYOG 30-35L pack on 01/18/2014 14:36:40 MST Print View

Exceptional-looking pack!

I wouldn't begin this project, but you nailed it.

Jang-Tian Shieh
(syoten) - MLife

Locale: Taiwan
Re: MYOG 30-35L pack on 01/18/2014 18:52:09 MST Print View

Great job, Congratulations! The handle looks unique, and the zipper pockets on the shoulder straps look nice. The oblique zipper seems making the access easier. The way the lumbar support was made to get airflow is also nice.

Besides, how did you reinforce the connection between shoulder straps and the main body? I can't really see it, but the sewing area looks a little small. How did you secure the ladder lock on the bottom of the shoulder strap? Is it just sewed between 3Dmesh and dyneema and top stitched? If so, I would recommend additional xbox or bartacking.

BTW, in my experience, for connecting straps or something onto thin fabric like 210D dyneema ripstop, xbox stitching is much better than bartacking. And it would be better to make these reinforcing stitching through several layers instead of only one layer.

Robert Dusing
(morob325) - F

Locale: texas
reinforcements on 01/18/2014 19:37:17 MST Print View

The shoulder straps are connected with an xbox style stitch and I went over the top a couple extra times. I have an inside layer of 400D behind the shoulder straps for reinforcement that folds over and secures the frame too. I had thought about bartacking but my machine was already being finicky going through the shoulder straps, dyneema, 400d, a little 70d and part of the haul loop. It is probably the ugliest piece of sewing on the pack so I didn't do a close-up.

The ladderlocks were bartacked to the dyneema before I attached the 3d mesh, and then have two layers of straight stitching through them. It's probably worth attaching the ladderlock with an xbox after the rest of the shoulder strap is finished since I would't notice the mesh being compressed on the end of it.

I think next time I'm going to put some reinforcement or use heavier material where the hipbelt straps attach. I used the hipbelt buckle scheme from my talon 44 where a strap attaches to each side of the hipbelt twice so hopefully there's not too much stress on them. I can see that being a failure point in the future since one of the attachments on each side is with only one bartack. It worked on my last pack but I used a much heavier fabric.

Edited by morob325 on 01/18/2014 20:00:22 MST.

Robert Dusing
(morob325) - F

Locale: texas
fancy stiching on 01/18/2014 19:42:47 MST Print View

My singer 500a has some decorative stitches built in that I used to give it a custom look. The stitch from the haul loop is used with orange thread on the 8 compression loops as well as one line of stitching on the shoulder pockets. I was going to use different colored thread in certain parts but got impatient and didn't feel like changing that often so one shoulder pocket is done in navy and the other in gray. Finally I just put in yellow and stopped worrying about it.

John West
(skyzo) - M

Locale: Borah Gear
Re: fancy stiching on 01/19/2014 15:38:36 MST Print View

One of the best looking MYOG packs I've seen in some time, good job!

Brian Padovini
(Padovini) - M
Nice Looking Pack on 01/20/2014 10:22:05 MST Print View

Very nice looking pack. What are the dimensions if you don’t mind sharing please? I am working on designing my own pack currently, and this is very similar to what I had imagined.

Brian P.

Robert Dusing
(morob325) - F

Locale: texas
pack dimensions on 01/20/2014 10:42:42 MST Print View

The side panels are about 6" wide, 10.5" against my back, and just under 10" across the front. It tapers at the bottom like the golite ion. 22" from the bottom to the base of the cinch collar. My volume is just an estimate that includes pockets.