A buddy and I hiked Havasau 2 Fall's ago, and actually enjoyed it. We've done over 400 miles of Grand Canyon hiking, and prefer the remote / pristine experiences, but the Havasau allure of the beautiful creek, the waterfalls, and the history convinced us to just expect a Phantom Ranch like experience and go for it.
We encountered very little garbage, etc. The hike down to Supai was boring but goes fast - just dodge the mule/horse trains and ignore the helicopters. We found Supai itself to be interesting, bought a soda or two at the store, and had a hot breakfast at the restaurant on the way out.
The Supai people were either nice to us, stared at us, or ignored us, but we did not feel uncomfortable. Some of the homes were trashed out, but others were nicely kept up.
The 2 miles beyond Supai are an easy and well traveled walk, but the views of the waterfalls are nice. There were a few portable toilets on both ends of the 1 mile campground, a safe spring about 1/2 way in, and enough spots to camp where you can get some solitude if you get there early enough to find one.
The highlight was the dayhike down the chains at Mooney Falls and to Beaver Falls and back. Depending on your water intake, all you need is a 70-100 oz Camelback with some snacks, wear some Keen sandals, and put your camera in a waterproof bag in case you forget it is in your pants pocket when crossing the stream.
Do NOT drink the stream water, even treated - bring enough water from the spring.
All in all, we are glad we visited Havasu, and would go there again sometime with our wives. But we still prefer the other trails and routes in Grand Canyon.