Yes, this is a "can of worms" issue. So much so that I will strive to limit my commentary to the models that you mentioned.
I will fail.
I never even knew that Evernew made an alky stove. It looks similar to the Honey and several similar stoves in rough concept, though some of them started as wood-burners. I suspect it works fine, and benefits from being multi-fuel (i.e. burning wood) but I've never seen a review of it let alone used one.
Actually, their incredible stability is one of the acknowledged benefits of the TD Caldera Cone. (This is is indeed one of the UL community's darlings.) They are hella stable, because by definition the base of the cone is even wider than your pot, which more than offsets the scant extra height. That wide base also makes it much easier to set up on rough ground, compared to perching your pot precariously on a narrow stove. I have owned several iterations and I can be counted among their admirers, but they aren't perfect. First, they MUST be fitted to your specific pot. It can take a while to get the knack of pulling a hot pot out of the cone when it starts to boil. Next, TD did a lot of R&D to ensure that the 12-10 stove and cone combination was very efficient in a wide range of conditions, but the tradeoff is that it is TRULY EXELLENT in none. Boil times are on the longer end of things, too, in the name of fuel economy. The Classic model is tough to pack- it's an odd shape. Many packing solutions neutralize any weight advantage from using an alky stove. The Fissure is fiddly, requiring some assembly and a couple of tent pegs, if such things annoy you. The benefit is that the cone, wood burning accessories, stove, and fuel bottle will all fit inside your pot- probably with room to spare to cram other stuff inside. The Sidewinder is only available for certain wide/low pots, and also requires tent pegs, though I can easily do without the pegs for my 0.9L Evernew pot. It's a bit more bulky, and sometimes your fuel bottle won't fit in the pot. Some of the pots are so low that you have to trim the priming pan off the 12-10 stove to get it to fit in the pot with the cone. But really, the Fissure and Sidewinder are both great widgets. And the titanium cones, while expensive, are also multi-fuel (i.e. wood burning). Aluminum ones can't burn wood- they disintegrate. The versions that use Zelph's Starlyte stove benefit from that design in that the stove is spill-proof and can even be carried full, and several people (including me) have posted here on how the Starlyte has some advantages over the 12-10, but everything is a tradeoff. I.e. it boils slightly faster but burns fractionally more fuel to do it. It is also smaller and packs into small pots easier.
So with a TD CC you're basically accepting a little fiddle-factor for good efficiency and great stability. I think I'd go with a TD titanium cone before the Evernew- I'm always willing to support cottage manufacturers. Granted, the Evernew is probably slightly cheaper. It also has the benefit of being compatible with differently sized pots, though, if that is important to you. (Recall that the TD CC must be fitted to a particular model of pot.) But I'd bet that the cone is MUCH more stable, and I'd rather stay with a known, proven stove design. Both the 12-10 and the Starlyte are brutally simple and work well with little fiddling.
I had a Vargo Triad (I think that's what you meant by "Trinidad?") years ago when I was a larval-stage UL convert and could never get it to work well. Perhaps it was my inexperience at the time, since others say theirs work well, but it soured me on Vargo stoves. They aren't really an open stove, and they aren't really a pressurized stove- so what are they? They're messy to empty of unburned fuel, too, no matter what Vargo says about using the leg as a spout.
The Vargo Decagon always looked interesting to me, though, in a brutally-simple, tough-as-nails way. But it looks very unstable- it only has three points of contact with the pot, in a way that reduces stability by effectively reducing the stove's radius on three of six sides. The wide flange on the bottom is smoke and mirrors- the stove might not tip but the pot WILL tip off the stove. It's really no improvement on a cat food stove in that regard- in fact it is probably less stable than such a stove.
I've never used the AGG Katahdin, but it looks like a take on a common design. I'm sure it works fine, but I have a hard time believing that it is any improvement on a cat food stove, and is far more expensive.
Really, you can say that last bit about most alky stove designs, with the exception being optimalized items like the TD CC.
Heck, have you considered a cat food stove? No more unstable than the Katahdin, but much cheaper. Not really "rugged" per se, but easy to bend back into shape if you accidentally step on it, and building materials can be scrounged from a dumpster. Simple as hell- all you need are pliers and a paper hole punch. (Or just a knife for a crude but functional temporary version.) Easy to google how to make one, sometimes called a "Fancy Feast stove."
I'm not sure where you got that the Whitebox is "sturdy." It looks very tippy to me- a pot perched on a narrow stove. Again, if you're willing to do that consider a cat food stove.
EDIT--- The only reason so many of these complex alky stove designs exist is that so many people like to fiddle with them. Like Zelph, below. Come on, Dan, reveal your affiliations when you pimp your own products. :) Besides, I already pimped for you.
Also, Emily, it is important to realize that you cannot really COOK very well with an alcohol stove. By which I mean that alky stoves are great for boiling water, but simmering or frying with them can be a challenge. (And, oddly, if you can boil water then steam-baking is pretty easy, too.) There are a few designs that use simmer rings or air inlet occlusion to simmer, but yikes if you really need to do that reconsider alky stoves.