Thank you for your comments. Very gracious of you.
I appreciate that my comments were not gracious, though. So will attempt some helpful, if not positive comments.
The wall under the awning goes back to the original Eureka Crescent, if not well before that. First thing I did with the Crescent was to remove the fabric portion of the door/wall entirely, leaving just the netting, and put 'beaks' on the awning that zipped shut to make a closed vestibule with the front slightly open at the bottom for ventilation:
In its prime, before the PU coat degraded, this tent handled some serious gales in unprotected areas. And all the benefits of the awning were kept when the beaks were rolled up out of the way.
The beaks, from 1.6 oz (with coat)PU coated nylon from Warmlite, were lighter than the 2.7 oz coated door that was removed from the tent. The elevation of the vestibule bottom did not create a serious wind problem, because as Franco points out, the wind is usually quite less just above ground level, and as always, we at least try to keep the entrance facing away from the prevailing wind.
Why not just leave the vertical wall under the awning as is? Well, in addition to the usefulness of the vestibule, there is nothing wind hates more than a vertical wall, especially if there is an awning around it to catch the wind. You may think that the guylines will resist the wind. Yes, but the tent will shake like the dickens. So why fight the wind if you can channel it around a pointy vestibule. So long story short, you may need to add some yardgoods to those awnings to make the tent windworthy. Then you won't need the weight of the coated nylon on the doors, just the netting, or a light DWR fabric. And the improved air circulation will help with condensation under the roof.
Although I think you are going to have a problem with condensation on the single wall at the head end, where it will be annoying. A way must be found to shield the head from the wet wall. Maybe a pullout vent that will place netting next to the head, and ventilate at the point of exhalation, where we most need it.
Adding fabric, even if weight neutral, raises the flame retardency standards issue.
There is the implication that the lighter nylon is not sturdy enough, especially with the required PU coat. That's why I am trying out the 15 denier Goondie, to see if it's so. My feeling is that if Snow Peak can market a PU coated 20 denier Lago tent, using polyester that is weaker than Dupont 6.6 nylon, and market it as a winter tent, then the real issue is not the inherent strength of the material; rather it is the quality of the material and the coating. If SD cannot profitably market tents of these lighter materials, then that, alas, seems to end the discussion right there. But Mountain Hardwear and GoLite are doing it, and I'd think they'd have just as much interest in a profitable product.
Also, a few companies are using fabric coated with silicone on one side, and PU on the other. That could yield a lighter floor, and meet the CPAI standards. I've found that silcoated nylon with a high HH makes great floors because the elasticity of the material improves the resistance to abrasion and pointy objects. The catch is that the floor has to be well tensioned at the corners to keep it from sliding about.
That rear wicket could also use lighter carbon, albeit with elbows of Easton 7075-T9.
With lighter materials, hence lighter weight, and some windworthiness, I think you might have a winner for the many who hike with two trekking poles these days.
Good luck to you!
P.S. Your IT guys should make the videos viewable by those of us who live in the boonies without broadband.