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Synthetic Parka for summer mountaineering
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Rod Lawlor
(Rod_Lawlor) - MLife

Locale: Australia
Synthetic Parka for summer mountaineering on 05/22/2007 03:45:03 MDT Print View

Hi, I'm looking at doing a mountaineering course in British Columbia in August and some winter trips in the Australian Alps.

I'm looking for a parka with a hood to use as my main insulation layer. I want something that I can throw on over my Goretex shell when I stop.

It needs to be good down to about -10 celsius, about 15F, as part of a layering system.

I'd really like something with a hood big enough to go over a helmet if possible, since my 63 cm head pretty much precludes getting anything underneath.

I'm interested in the MEC Juggernaut ( but haven't seen any mention of it on BPL.

Any other suggestions out there.

I'm 176cm (about 5'10") and 68kg (about 150lb)



Edited by Rod_Lawlor on 05/22/2007 03:46:22 MDT.

Sven Klingemann
(svenklingemann) - F
Re: Synthetic Parka for summer mountaineering on 05/22/2007 07:33:06 MDT Print View

I would go with the hooded Patagonia Micro-Puff or the Patagonia DAS Parka depending on your layering system and tolerance of the cold. I have used both and they are terrific. You should also check out the summary reviews on this website.

Robert Mohid
(mohid) - F
Winter jacket on 05/22/2007 15:34:32 MDT Print View

I don't think you'll need anything as warm as the juggernaut jacket for august mnteering in BC. A fleece under your hardshell and a warm hat/gloves and you should be fine.

If you plan on sitting around on belay for an hour, ok, but I doubt that will happen on a guided course. The cold comes from the wind.

Don't have any winter experience in the alps, but I would be comfortable with the juggernaught jacket ice climbing in bc in winter. I've been using the mec northern lite for winter ice cragging in bc for years, and it's fine up to -20c.

The DAS is fine too, but it's overkill unless you plan to bivy.

Rod Lawlor
(Rod_Lawlor) - MLife

Locale: Australia
Northern Light / Juggernaut on 05/23/2007 21:44:47 MDT Print View

Thanks guys.

Sven, I'm pretty sure the DAS is well and truly outside my scope of conditions, but the Micropuff might work.

Robert, thanks for that. I probably didn't explain it very well, but that's almost exactly what I'm looking for. When I'm moving I expect to be able to mix and match a merino, an old MEC 100 fleece and an even older MEC fleece/supplex vest +/- my shell. I'm pretty lean (my friends laugh at me when I wear bike longs) and I start to feel the cold when I stop. I want something I can throw over everything, then stash it again when I start moving.

I have an old MEC Northern Light pullover with the lighter weight insulation but it's awkward to get on over a helmet. It looks like MEC have stopped making the Northern Light Jacket, and replaced it with the Juggernaut.

Do you know if that's true or not?

Cheers, Rod

Robert Mohid
(mohid) - F
Northern Light on 05/24/2007 08:06:24 MDT Print View

Hi Rod,

I know they still have the nl jacket for sale, not only the vest. I saw some in the store as of last week.

But if you're looking exclusively for a toss-over-the-top jacket, then the juggernaught would be better.

I've been using a patagucci puff jacket (discontinued) as a belay jacket for winter anything, and have been pleased, although I tend not to get too cold. I do have a concern about the zippers on the patagonia stuff. They are cheap zippers, and the end in my jacket will tend to get out of the the metal endpoint unless i'm carefull. A big minus for an expensive jacket. If it was bounght at mec at least I could return it, no questions asked. Check the zippers carefully.

It MIGHT be worthwhile to see if you can still score the juggernaught's big borther, the hooded magma jacket, which was discontinued this season. Primaloft + hood + dryloft = good belay jacket. It would be world class if they just cut it a little longer in the back and added an inside mesh pocket. And you'd pay almost half price for a 190$ jacket that's better than the 250$ you'd get from patagonia. Call them up and ask. You'd be good for anyhting south of the yukon and under 20000 feet with a jacket like that.

But that's just if you want to buy one good jacket and be done with it "forever".

The juggernaught is a fine choice for the gram conscious (220g less) and provides a good safety margin.

Edited by mohid on 05/24/2007 08:13:15 MDT.

Rod Lawlor
(Rod_Lawlor) - MLife

Locale: Australia
The conclusion on 08/26/2007 19:16:50 MDT Print View

Well, just to finish this thread off, I finally ended up with an Outdoor Research Chaos jacket.

I tried the Juggernaut, but the hood was really tight over a helmet, pulling the jacket up off my shoulders.

The Chaos is actually designed as a belay jacket, ie to fit over your hard shell, so I got a medium (my normal size) The hood fits easily over my Petzl Ecrin Roc, but will also snug down over my bare head, thanks to the three way adjustment.

Gore Windstopper outer, with Primaloft insulation. It weighs in at 676g (about24oz) on my scales, so around the middle of what I was looking at.

Includes an inside mesh and zip pocket, and a velcro hang tab? that I still can't work out the need for. Sleeves are velcro adjustment.

It retails at $240, but the guys at Seattle's OR store gave me a smoking deal, which put it right on par with the Juggernaut. The clincher was that some of the Mt Rainier mountaineering schools are offering it as a rental. It must be pretty durable!!!

Definitely worth checking out for the PNW guys.

Paul Tree
(Paul_Tree) - F

Locale: Wowwww
that velcro hang tab on 09/23/2007 10:08:49 MDT Print View

Would it be for securing the hood, eg by rolling one way or another??

Rod Lawlor
(Rod_Lawlor) - MLife

Locale: Australia
Re: that velcro hang tab on 09/27/2007 01:57:45 MDT Print View

Thanks Paul,

Gave that a try and it worked great. I'm not sure how practical it is, since most times I need the jacket, I need the hood, but I'll try it a few times before I cut it off,


Graham Williams
(crackers) - F
velcro thing... on 09/27/2007 10:37:05 MDT Print View

many top of the line alpine jackets have a tab on the back of the hood. If you're going to be leaving it on for awhile, I find it useful to attach the belay parka's velcro thingy to my shell. It stays on better. My belay parka has little cords in the wrists so you can put the wrist closure on the shell through them so they become one...