The benefit (or problem) with propane is that its vapor pressure is ~ 5 times as great as butane or the iso blends. Here is a chart from the Zen Stoves website (http://zenstoves.net/Canister.htm)
Any appliance (stove) needs to be constructed to handle the pressure of its intended fuel. This means that burners, fittings, seals, hoses, lines, fuel container, etc. must handle the maximum pressure of the fuel.
I am not a scientist, but have a lot of experience with propane appliances. Let’s look at how RV manufactures manage the high pressures of propane. Any appliance that is inside the RV must run on 11 inches water column pressure (less than 1 psi). That means the following appliances in my tent trailer operate at 11” WC: 13.5K btu furnace, 6 gallon water heater, LPG refrigerator/freezer, and 3 burner stove/oven. How do I know this is the actual pressure? I have measured it with a manometer (below).
The appliances in my tent trailer are all known as low pressure appliances. The pressure is dropped from the LPG tanks to the camper via a pressure regulator.
Now let’s talk about outdoor propane appliances. Most are rated at 13-16 psi, and all include a built in pressure regulator. I have never seen a butane/iso stove canister stove with a pressure regulator.
Above: This is a Coleman propane stove and the regulated pressure is 16 psi.
You can run this stove off a bulk propane tank, but you MUST purchase a HIGH pressure hose rated at well over 200 psi.
Above: This is an interesting one, a Weber Baby Q Grill. My testing found that it is a low pressure stove operating at under 1 psi. The reason it works so well is that the grill is enamel coated cast iron (heavy). Given it is a low pressure appliance, I was able to remove the regulator and connect it directly to the outside quick connector on my tent trailer, which has 11" WC pressure.
Above: regulator removed and replaced with a quick fitting.
Above: Hose connector to the camper.
Above: low pressure appliances connected to tent trailer.
So why am I posting pictures of RV propane appliances? Because I know the operating specifications and can verify the pressures.
When it comes to backpacking stoves I am going to use the stove that works for the conditions I am going to encounter. In winter snow conditions I am going to use a Wind Pro II (inverted) or a MSR Dragon Fly. Those are the right tools for me, and I am going to use the fuels that are intended for each stove by the stove manufacturer; and I am going to follow the operating and maintenance procedures put forth by the manufacturer. That is why I have never had the "common" problems folks have with liquid stoves to include a Svea 123. There are too many things that can go wrong when you are out in the field using "jury-rigged" equipment, especially if one is tired and cold.