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jerry adams
(retiredjerry) - MLife

Locale: Oregon and Washington
Re: stabilizing insulation on 03/06/2013 09:51:53 MST Print View

One thing about pins is that if the insulation misaligns, it bunches up as you approach the pin. And pins make all these holes in the fabric. Sometimes I use a hand stitch and try to put it in the seam allowance.

Fortunately insulation is stretchy and squishy so you can make up for some mistakes.

Yeah, gotta go slow (at least for us amateurs). "Measure twice and cut once".

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
C clips/clamps on 03/06/2013 11:29:22 MST Print View

I'm thinking of using C clips, the black metal things with silver legs. Have a whole bunch of them, and they would hold an inch or so in from the edge, perfect for the seam allowance and to keep the edges compressed, and hold a greater area of insulation in place per clip, and no needle holes. I'll just remove each clamp as It approaches the needle.

I love waiting for packages/shipments. It's like Christmas on demand.

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/06/2013 11:54:36 MST.

Bill Fornshell
(bfornshell) - MLife

Locale: Southern Texas
Re: Re: stabilizing insulation on 03/06/2013 12:20:37 MST Print View

I have been using cloths pins for awhile. They are faster and easier then straight pins and leave no holes. The link is to the cuben sleeping bag thread.

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/xdpy/forum_thread/19140/index.html?skip_to_post=150551#150551

1.


2.

Edited by bfornshell on 03/06/2013 12:23:04 MST.

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
love the clothes pin on 03/06/2013 15:46:04 MST Print View

I love the clothes pin idea. That's what I'm planning to do with the C-clips since I already have them laying around.

Chris Muthig
(cmuthig) - M

Locale: Georgia
Re: C clips/clamps on 03/08/2013 06:01:25 MST Print View

I've used clothes pins for some projects, especially ones that involve things like foam, and I was happy with it. The only possible downside to the C clamps is that they weigh more, so when you are going about sewing the quilt together, it will make the process seem clumsy by dragging your material down by your feet.

Good luck on the quilt.

Ken Thompson
(kthompson) - MLife
Re: love the clothes pin on 03/08/2013 06:33:36 MST Print View

I've been using binder clips with great success

Elliott Wolin
(ewolin) - MLife

Locale: Hampton Roads, Virginia
RE: Question about MYOG synthetic quilt construction on 03/08/2013 11:25:49 MST Print View

I've been using clothes pins for many years, I believe Jardine recommended this in the instructions for my first quilt, a RayWay kit. And a big bag of them costs only a few dollars at the big box stores.

They are also great for sealing bags of potato chips, pretzels, etc.

Edited by ewolin on 03/14/2013 12:47:14 MDT.

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
thread tension on 03/12/2013 15:59:05 MDT Print View

What thread tension and stitch length should I use on the sewing machine for 1.1oz 30D ripstop and 5.0 Apex?

Got my insulation; fabric and whatnot comes either tomorrow or the day after.

Christopher *
(cfrey.0) - M

Locale: US East Coast
Keeping up with the Joneses on 03/12/2013 18:02:53 MDT Print View

An-D,

You are about a month ahead of me. I plan on tackling a synthetic quilt in April, so I hope you'll keep us posted on your progress and whatever little lessons you learn along the way. I have read just about every post I can find on BPL on the subject, but it seems much more personal to know you are actively constructing your quilt in real time.

Thanks.

Erik Rasmussen
(polvalt)

Locale: Inland Northwest
me too on 03/12/2013 18:15:52 MDT Print View

I too am looking forward to seeing your quilt come together as I am soon starting a quilt/bag for our 9 month old daughter...

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
will keep all updated on 03/12/2013 18:34:16 MDT Print View

I'll definitely keep you all posted as I make the quilt and try to give as detailed an account of the making process as possible along with pictures. :o)

One thing I'm planning to different is to sew the head end shut first and leave the foot box for last. I'm going to sew on a draw cord channel an inch or so from the expected finished edge of the head end on the outer/top fabric before sewing everything together. That way, when I cinch the quilt, there will be a sort of draft tube around my neck. I don't like the feeling of a draw cord around my neck without insulation to cushion it.


Here's some drawings... I had to make cut outs so to figure out how to orient things, like the grosgrain loops/buckles.
sketchcropsketch

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/12/2013 23:13:44 MDT.

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Just got everything i need on 03/13/2013 16:35:57 MDT Print View

Just got all my fabric, so now i have everything i need to get started.

One thing I'm currently pondering is weather to sew on fabric extension at head end or foot end.

I ordered 3 yards Lime Green (108") of 72" wide ripstop seconds so I can cut the length in half, have that be the width, and use the full roll width as my head to toe length.

I'm 5'6", so 72" is just about enough for a perfect fit after seam allowances (lets call it 70" finished... but that's assuming I make no mistakes. That also leaves me next to no foot room to stuff extra clothes on especially cold days, so i bought a yard remnant of Black 1.1 ripstop from Seattle Fabrics to sew onto the fabric I already have to extend the length.

I feel like having the black strip on the head end would be nice, since it'll hide any dirt or oil stains from my skin rubbing at the neck/collar, but the foot end would be fine too cuz then there'll be no seam in fabric near shoulders...sketch

definitely leaning towards black at head end. There aren't any structural reasons not to, right?

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/13/2013 17:27:41 MDT.

Adam Rothermich
(aroth87) - F

Locale: Missouri Ozarks
Re: Just got everything i need on 03/13/2013 17:06:37 MDT Print View

As someone who used velcro for the footbox of his quilt, I would advise against it. It really likes to grab onto my wool socks if I don't have it all the "hook" part covered up. Maybe omni-tape wouldn't be so grabby, but for what its worth I'm going to use snaps or a zipper the next time I make a quilt.

And I think having the extension piece at the top would look sharp. I don't think having a seam there would be noticeable. I might have to steal that idea for my next quilt too.

Adam

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Snaps instead of Velcro on 03/13/2013 17:32:40 MDT Print View

Adam-

Yeah, I ordered velcro, but I went out and bought a couple packs of hand-sew on snaps instead thinking the exact same thing. Also, the machine I'll be using probably cant sew through the thick, hard velcro fabric.

Definitely feel like the black ontop is going to be awesome. Definitely will hide oil/dirt/skin rubbed off better than lime green.

The 72" wide roll 1.1 Lime Green 2nds from DIY Gear Supply is really nice. Only thing i can see is a grey thread running across the length 1.5" from each edge, and slightly lighter color final .5" of the edges.

jerry adams
(retiredjerry) - MLife

Locale: Oregon and Washington
Re: will keep all updated on 03/13/2013 18:59:12 MDT Print View

I like your hand written design documents

I must admit I have a few of those laying around

John Donewar
(Newton) - MLife

Locale: Southeastern Louisiana
Re: Snaps instead of Velcro on 03/13/2013 19:49:12 MDT Print View

An-D,

Why not use a 24" separating zipper to form the foot box and cinch it up with some shock cord threaded through the drawstring "tunnel" and a couple of toggles, one on each end of the shock cord?

I'd probably use a size 5 separating coil type zipper and some 3/16" shock cord with mini mini toggles. All of this material is available from Quest Outfitters.

http://www.questoutfitters.com/index.html

If you'd really rather snaps take a look at KamSnaps.

http://www.kamsnaps.com/Snap-Setters-Hardware/Snap-Pliers-Handheld-/KAM-Pliers-Handheld-Press-for-Plastic-Snaps-p116.html

http://www.kamsnaps.com/Product-FAQs-13.html#size

FWIW in my experience I have chosen not to use the shock cord cinching under the torso.

Party On,

Newton

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Re: Snaps instead of Velcro on 03/13/2013 23:34:53 MDT Print View

John-

Yeah, I thought about doing a zipper, but I think i'm going to stick with my snaps for now. I've already got all my stuff (shock cord, cord, mini 2 hole cord locks, snaps, grosgrain, 1/2" elastic for pad strapping system, etc) and fabric/Insulation cut out.

For straps, i'm using 1/2" super low profile plastic center release watch buckles. Female ends are going to be attached to quilt with grosgrain and the ladder lock male ends are going to point out from each other on 1/2" elastic wrapped around the pad. That way, I can tighten or loosen the quilt around me and above the pad, but it won't shift with me when I toss and turn, as I toss and turn a lot.

It'll be like the way the Katabatic quilts attach and can be tightened. Got the idea and tutorial from Amy L's double quilt attachment post:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=69689

except mine will use elastic so it'll have some give (i could have put the elastic on the quilt side, and use grosgrain around the pad... but i didn't think of that until after I already ordered everything, but i'm still happy).

Male ends attached, holding one of the female endstightenedloosened

I put some tiny pieces of 3M reflective tape on the buckles so i can see it better at night/low light.

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/13/2013 23:46:35 MDT.

And E
(LunchANDYnner) - M

Locale: Pacific Northwest
tension and length? on 03/14/2013 07:20:52 MDT Print View

Any advice on thread tension and length? Gonna get sewing after classes today. Will practice with scrap pieces first of course.

Adam Rothermich
(aroth87) - F

Locale: Missouri Ozarks
Re: tension and length? on 03/14/2013 10:51:05 MDT Print View

Thread tension is something you have to work out on your own. Just grab a couple scraps of fabric and look up one of the myriad tutorials online. If you have the manual for your machine its probably addressed in there too. Basically you want the stitches to look the same when viewed from either side of the seam.

As for stitch length, I've always used "2" on my machine. I think that's what the manual recommended for light fabrics. Or maybe I read it somewhere online, I honestly don't remember but it works fine for me.

Adam

jerry adams
(retiredjerry) - MLife

Locale: Oregon and Washington
Re: Re: tension and length? on 03/14/2013 12:13:08 MDT Print View

Same here, I use "2" whatever that is (2 mm because Janome is European?)

For some reason, I probably use 3 or 4 if I'm going through synthetic insulation