**** Quilt is complete! See: http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=74725 ******

I'm planning on getting started making a quilt in the next couple of weeks.
This'll be the first quilt I've attempted.

1.1 oz rip stop seconds, grosgrain, cordage, Velcro from DIY gear supply,
5oz Apex from thru hiker

My question is: can I just sew the outer shell like a 3 sided pillow case then cut insulation to size, shove it in, then sew an inch in all around to stabilize?

I know the norm is to do insulation, fabric, fabric then sew then turn rightside out and close up top. I'm just having a hard time conceptualizing how the bottom draw cord is put on.

If I do it like a duvet, I could sew in channels for draw cord 3.5" from the foot and head of right side of outer fabric, then sew both outer and liner together inside out. This way, the draw cords will be a couple inches from the edges to act as a sort of draft tube and so I won't feel like I'm being choked by a cord when cinched up.

I don't mind it looking rough, just feel like making the quilt like a duvet cover then putting in insulation seems easier to me.

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/15/2013 00:36:06 MDT.

http://kringlelight.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/sin50_guide.pdf

but use strips of newspaper instead of extra fabric (it will rip off later and leave no trace)
http://smg.beta.photobucket.com/user/Socjake/media/0604022113.jpg.html

Just add an extra hem at the bottom end to contain the cord. (and top i guess.. i didn't do one for the top since i don't want anything around there) you could also add grosgrain loops on the top corners and attach some cord that way.

I sewed 3 sides of shell then stuffed the cut to size insulation. I worked well enough but I decided if I ever do it again - I would preform the normal way. The newspaper idea posted by Jake sounds like a good one.

My MYOG quilt is def rough....

Oh, I see. I read that guide before but somehow missed the part where only the sides are sewn. Saw the newspaper part before. Thanks!

I'll cut the insulation so that the shell fabric has a couple inches in excess at the bottom and when it's right side out, I can sew one inch up from the insulation and where the insulation actually ends then roll the extra fabric and sew to make the draw cord channel.

Another way to do it is to sew through fabric, insulation, fabric around the perimeter with an extra 1 inch of fabric all the way around.

Then just fold under the two fabrics to hide the raw edges and sew through it.

Yeah, theoretically there's a little wider strip of just fabric without insulation, but it's small enough to be insignificant.

If nothing else, sometimes I screw something up and using this recovers from it so it's useful to have it in your repertoire.

Also, regarding length... I'm 5'6", 150 lbs, 38" chest, size 9 shoe. I start off sleeping on my back but do tend to roll around at night and especially towards the morning and usually wake up on my side. I'm pretty sure 52" wide up top should be enough to tuck edges partially under me and hold together with elastic straps. But, how long should I make it if i want it long enough to cinch up both ends and still be able to pull the bag up over my head without compressing foot area?

Or will I not need to pull it over my head...I am a warm sleeper... I have a Stoic Hadron Anorak with hood I'll be bringing most trips anyways and have a Mountain Hardwear Compressor beanie with Primaloft (1.5oz total weight) I can wear under the hood if its going to be really cold.

You do not want to pull it over your head if you breath into it, because it will get wet from exhaled water vapor. Better to wear a balaclava or something.

Yeah, that's what I thought. Cool. Since EE site says foot box takes about 6" from length when cinched and 72 is enough room to fit 5'8" with minor compression of foot.

So probably just 72" should be plenty, right?

I think 72" is long enough but mine is a little different than normal quilt so I don't know.

probably.. i'm 5'7 and i got the EE Small size and it fits me perfectly. my MYOG synthetic is similar sized though i'm not sure exact length.

Awesome! Thanks for all the help, everyone!

So I just ordered everything except the insulation.

Should i get 5.0 oz apex from thru hiker or 4.0 oz Apex from OWFinc.com?
I'm looking for something comfortable down to 30, and lower with layering.

I'm a warm sleeper, and have taken my current synthetic mummy bag (150g/m2 Thermolite Micro, like, half an inch of loft) down to upper 20s with appropriate layering. I actually got too hot in my down jacket and had to take it off at night and slept well in a light grid fleece and midweight wool tights.

For sleeping pad, I have a BA IAC (r 4.1) for cold and snowy conditions, a 48" rei lite core (r 3.2) for warmer, and Klymit Static V (R 1.3, taken down into the 30s).

I know Jerry said his was 5 up top, 2.5 legs.

Also, as long as I don't compress too much, would this quilt survive a through hike? Not planning one yet, but planning on doing a few section hikes this year. I'm afraid to use down because I release a lot of body moisture, and get clammy/sweaty even down in the 20s without necessarily being hot, which is why I'm sticking to synthetic.

Man... I write/ask a lot.

I have 5 oz on top, 2.5 on feet, wear a 4 oz apex vest, I'm warm down to 30 F.

Obviously each person is different. I don't think there's an answer to your question. The difference between 4 oz and 5 oz is small.

Alright, just ordered 2 yards of 5.0 Apex! Should be getting everything sometime next week. Will start on everything once I'm on spring break in a couple weeks.

So, if I were to do the duvet cover method by making shell first then cutting/inserting Apex in, to stabilize it, do I have to sew through ALL the way up the long sides? Or can I stabilize by sewing a couple/few inches through perpendicular to the edge?

Like this... At like, one foot intervals or something:

°°°°°°|°°°°°°|°°°°°°|°°°°°°|


......!......!......!......!

The head and foot insulation will be sewn to the shell when I create the draw cord channels. With my mom's machine that is old and prone to jamming (even with the news paper trick as an option I feel just the fabric sandwich would be easier), sewing through perpendicularly would be easiest. Any thoughts as to viability and durability?

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/05/2013 22:32:28 MST.

the newspaper isnt to prevent jamming. it is to prevent the fibers of the insulation from getting stuck on the foot. If your machine is jamming then it is going to be an issue regardless.. you are probably trying to go too fast or something is not working properly. I used some scraps to practice a bit before going to my quilt.

It is pretty easy to do it that way and is going to hold the insulation the best. It will give a strong and clean seam. no sense in making something that is going to fall apart, especially on a longer hike. I had not sewed anything on a sewing machine in at least 10 years and I was fine doing it the Sin50 way.

Okay, guess I'm just being paranoid, lazy perhaps? I'll just make sure I go slow and practice on scraps first. Maybe make a 5" diameter circle foot box draft blocker I can snap on or off for practice.

Again, thanks to everyone for the help. Just wanted to make sure I got the process/plans all figured out before my stuff arrives. I tend to rush things, so I'll have to slow myself down and take my time.

I wasn't aware of the newspaper trick when I made my wife a sleeping bag with Apex. What I ended up doing was the duvet method and then stabilized the insulation Ray-way style with loops of heavy thread at even spacing. It wasn't ideal, and if I make a synthetic quilt for myself I'm going to try using the newspaper, but it you just can't get the insulation to run through your machine it is another option.

Adam

I've sewn with fabric on the bottom, insulation on the top.

Yeah, the insulation tends to get caught up in the foot, but you can just press down on the insulation and feed it through. Another problem is it tends to get misaligned with the fabric at the bottom, when you get to the end of the row of stitches, the insulation will have slipped a few inches. But it is possible to feed it through and make it work. May be a little slow. Probably newspaper method is better.

Did you use enough pins? i used quite a few.. but moving slow it's easy to remove the next pin before you get to it. you figure you are only doing 2-2.5 yd seam it doesn't take that long even going slow. I think i spent an hour or 2 cutting fabric and pinning it together one day and a few hours the next day sewing it all up with draw cord and velcro.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v115/Socjake/0605021817.jpg

Edited by JakeDatc on 03/06/2013 08:54:29 MST.

One thing about pins is that if the insulation misaligns, it bunches up as you approach the pin. And pins make all these holes in the fabric. Sometimes I use a hand stitch and try to put it in the seam allowance.

Fortunately insulation is stretchy and squishy so you can make up for some mistakes.

Yeah, gotta go slow (at least for us amateurs). "Measure twice and cut once".

I'm thinking of using C clips, the black metal things with silver legs. Have a whole bunch of them, and they would hold an inch or so in from the edge, perfect for the seam allowance and to keep the edges compressed, and hold a greater area of insulation in place per clip, and no needle holes. I'll just remove each clamp as It approaches the needle.

I love waiting for packages/shipments. It's like Christmas on demand.

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/06/2013 11:54:36 MST.

I have been using cloths pins for awhile. They are faster and easier then straight pins and leave no holes. The link is to the cuben sleeping bag thread.

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/xdpy/forum_thread/19140/index.html?skip_to_post=150551#150551

1.


2.

Edited by bfornshell on 03/06/2013 12:23:04 MST.

I love the clothes pin idea. That's what I'm planning to do with the C-clips since I already have them laying around.

I've used clothes pins for some projects, especially ones that involve things like foam, and I was happy with it. The only possible downside to the C clamps is that they weigh more, so when you are going about sewing the quilt together, it will make the process seem clumsy by dragging your material down by your feet.

Good luck on the quilt.

I've been using binder clips with great success

I've been using clothes pins for many years, I believe Jardine recommended this in the instructions for my first quilt, a RayWay kit. And a big bag of them costs only a few dollars at the big box stores.

They are also great for sealing bags of potato chips, pretzels, etc.

Edited by ewolin on 03/14/2013 12:47:14 MDT.

What thread tension and stitch length should I use on the sewing machine for 1.1oz 30D ripstop and 5.0 Apex?

Got my insulation; fabric and whatnot comes either tomorrow or the day after.

An-D,

You are about a month ahead of me. I plan on tackling a synthetic quilt in April, so I hope you'll keep us posted on your progress and whatever little lessons you learn along the way. I have read just about every post I can find on BPL on the subject, but it seems much more personal to know you are actively constructing your quilt in real time.

Thanks.

I too am looking forward to seeing your quilt come together as I am soon starting a quilt/bag for our 9 month old daughter...

I'll definitely keep you all posted as I make the quilt and try to give as detailed an account of the making process as possible along with pictures. :o)

One thing I'm planning to different is to sew the head end shut first and leave the foot box for last. I'm going to sew on a draw cord channel an inch or so from the expected finished edge of the head end on the outer/top fabric before sewing everything together. That way, when I cinch the quilt, there will be a sort of draft tube around my neck. I don't like the feeling of a draw cord around my neck without insulation to cushion it.


Here's some drawings... I had to make cut outs so to figure out how to orient things, like the grosgrain loops/buckles.

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/12/2013 23:13:44 MDT.

Just got all my fabric, so now i have everything i need to get started.

One thing I'm currently pondering is weather to sew on fabric extension at head end or foot end.

I ordered 3 yards Lime Green (108") of 72" wide ripstop seconds so I can cut the length in half, have that be the width, and use the full roll width as my head to toe length.

I'm 5'6", so 72" is just about enough for a perfect fit after seam allowances (lets call it 70" finished... but that's assuming I make no mistakes. That also leaves me next to no foot room to stuff extra clothes on especially cold days, so i bought a yard remnant of Black 1.1 ripstop from Seattle Fabrics to sew onto the fabric I already have to extend the length.

I feel like having the black strip on the head end would be nice, since it'll hide any dirt or oil stains from my skin rubbing at the neck/collar, but the foot end would be fine too cuz then there'll be no seam in fabric near shoulders...

definitely leaning towards black at head end. There aren't any structural reasons not to, right?

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/13/2013 17:27:41 MDT.

As someone who used velcro for the footbox of his quilt, I would advise against it. It really likes to grab onto my wool socks if I don't have it all the "hook" part covered up. Maybe omni-tape wouldn't be so grabby, but for what its worth I'm going to use snaps or a zipper the next time I make a quilt.

And I think having the extension piece at the top would look sharp. I don't think having a seam there would be noticeable. I might have to steal that idea for my next quilt too.

Adam

Adam-

Yeah, I ordered velcro, but I went out and bought a couple packs of hand-sew on snaps instead thinking the exact same thing. Also, the machine I'll be using probably cant sew through the thick, hard velcro fabric.

Definitely feel like the black ontop is going to be awesome. Definitely will hide oil/dirt/skin rubbed off better than lime green.

The 72" wide roll 1.1 Lime Green 2nds from DIY Gear Supply is really nice. Only thing i can see is a grey thread running across the length 1.5" from each edge, and slightly lighter color final .5" of the edges.

I like your hand written design documents

I must admit I have a few of those laying around

An-D,

Why not use a 24" separating zipper to form the foot box and cinch it up with some shock cord threaded through the drawstring "tunnel" and a couple of toggles, one on each end of the shock cord?

I'd probably use a size 5 separating coil type zipper and some 3/16" shock cord with mini mini toggles. All of this material is available from Quest Outfitters.

http://www.questoutfitters.com/index.html

If you'd really rather snaps take a look at KamSnaps.

http://www.kamsnaps.com/Snap-Setters-Hardware/Snap-Pliers-Handheld-/KAM-Pliers-Handheld-Press-for-Plastic-Snaps-p116.html

http://www.kamsnaps.com/Product-FAQs-13.html#size

FWIW in my experience I have chosen not to use the shock cord cinching under the torso.

Party On,

Newton

John-

Yeah, I thought about doing a zipper, but I think i'm going to stick with my snaps for now. I've already got all my stuff (shock cord, cord, mini 2 hole cord locks, snaps, grosgrain, 1/2" elastic for pad strapping system, etc) and fabric/Insulation cut out.

For straps, i'm using 1/2" super low profile plastic center release watch buckles. Female ends are going to be attached to quilt with grosgrain and the ladder lock male ends are going to point out from each other on 1/2" elastic wrapped around the pad. That way, I can tighten or loosen the quilt around me and above the pad, but it won't shift with me when I toss and turn, as I toss and turn a lot.

It'll be like the way the Katabatic quilts attach and can be tightened. Got the idea and tutorial from Amy L's double quilt attachment post:

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=69689

except mine will use elastic so it'll have some give (i could have put the elastic on the quilt side, and use grosgrain around the pad... but i didn't think of that until after I already ordered everything, but i'm still happy).

Male ends attached, holding one of the female ends

I put some tiny pieces of 3M reflective tape on the buckles so i can see it better at night/low light.

Edited by LunchANDYnner on 03/13/2013 23:46:35 MDT.

Any advice on thread tension and length? Gonna get sewing after classes today. Will practice with scrap pieces first of course.

Thread tension is something you have to work out on your own. Just grab a couple scraps of fabric and look up one of the myriad tutorials online. If you have the manual for your machine its probably addressed in there too. Basically you want the stitches to look the same when viewed from either side of the seam.

As for stitch length, I've always used "2" on my machine. I think that's what the manual recommended for light fabrics. Or maybe I read it somewhere online, I honestly don't remember but it works fine for me.

Adam

Same here, I use "2" whatever that is (2 mm because Janome is European?)

For some reason, I probably use 3 or 4 if I'm going through synthetic insulation

Thanks guys! Gonna get started putting it all together this afternoon.

Definitely wouldn't have been able to do this without everyone's input. Thanks!