"Stainless is suppose to be better at heat conduction right?"
That was the idea, but the reality didn't correspond to the idea. If I had to put numbers on it, I'd guess that the stainless pot is about 10-15% less efficient.
Where I'd get up to or over a 60 second rolling boil on 2 cups with ti pot, I'd get barely a boil with the ss, if I got a boil at all. I think my last screen with more airholes did get a weak boil out of the ss pot if I remember right, or a boil then out right away.
I had also assumed that ss being a being better conductor would mean more efficient, but this was not at all the result in my testing. In fact, ti was by far the best, this thin ss second best, and an old heavier but wider boyscout aluminum pot by far the worst. This testing actually finally convinced me that ti is not just a sort of overpriced ul thing, but actually has utility and superior characteristics for this task.
This assumption actually made me go down a wrong path re testing for quite a while, I simply could not figure out what had suddenly made my test setup less efficient when nothing had changed other than the allegedly more efficient ss pot, it took a fair number of tests before I realized that the ss was the problem, because magically the ti pot always got better boils. I was also fortunate that the ss and the ti pot are roughly the same diameter so I could discount pot width as a factor.
I speculated a bit as to why this would be the case, and what I guess is that the heat spreads all over the ss pot whereas the heat goes pretty much right from flame to ti pot to water with ti. Since the heat closest to the flame source is strongest and has least area to dissipate, the ti wins, whereas with ss and aluminum, the heat spreads out all over the pot, but also from there to the air, not the water. That's my guess, but I'm not attached to it, but it does make a crude sort of sense assuming my logic isn't based on a false premise. I have an alternate theory that wonders if the ss pot radiates out / back more heat to the burn chamber, making it hotter, making the alcohol boil off faster than it burns. Both theories can work together too.
By the way, I was going to suggest that welding the holes after taking off the spot welded part would yield a very good pot, albeit marked by the weld, but since most people don't have welders, I didn't mention it, but I would think about doing that if I were you, all my pots have distinct rust right inside at the point of the spot weld, and I don't believe those could be relied on over time, unless it's not rust and it's just some weird production glitch. But getting a leak in the bottom holes would not be fun on a longer trip, that's why I won't use mine on long trips.