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@Dean Fellabaum - current state of the art? In the 9 oz range, there hasn't been much that bests the ID eVENT in terms of breathability and durability. I have two of those original jackets and they are still going strong. They've both seen a lot of use as they've shuffled around to family members and friends! As for pullovers, Patagonia had the 7.6 oz Specter eight years ago (2.5L). That's another one I use regularly that's still around in my closet and I grab it often. I think the Haglofs Ozo P/O from a few years ago had a far better hood (in fact, one of the best on the market), and I haven't seen any other hood I liked better. I'd like to think there is something very exciting lying in a corner somewhere, but it's hard to get excited about such a utilitarian piece - so my expectations perhaps are higher than others. As others have said, check out Rab, Montane, Haglofs, and OMM - these (and Westcomb for that matter) are companies to watch in this niche.
@Dave Chenault - I agree re: #3 zips (especially waterproof ones). It does require regular cleaning, lubricating, and maintenance. Most people don't do this, but if you do, I think a #3 is manageable even in dirty conditions. The main problem with #3's in my experience has been wrenching on the zipper hard enough to start breaking teeth as the jacket ages. This doesn't seem to be an issue with #5's.
@Samuel Farrington: Length - yes, that was an oversight that I left out of my review, my bad. This is one area where the ID eVENT suffers - it's short. The Westcomb Focus LT seems to be about three inches longer, which is great for backpackers. We need a little extra length. Climbers (ID targets this market in particular) tend to want short jackets so they can put the jacket on over a harness and it doesn't interfere with access to the harness.
To all: please be careful about accusing Westcomb for having "motives" to do this or that. Time and again, production samples come out heavier (or in some scary cases, lighter -- ack! what'd the factory forget?!) than prototypes and it's pretty normal. That doesn't mean there is an insidious CMO behind the PR helm trying to be deceptive.
The jacket didn't get a low rating because of weight. Please read that review rating carefully. Durability issues aside, it's a solid jacket with a great fit and nice aesthetics. If this is a systemic material failure, then I'm sure Westcomb will address it and fix for the next version, and they'll certainly honor a warranty on it. This is a company that values integrity in the marketplace, and my experiences with their people have been positive. Their design guys will take my jacket and study in more detail the wrist cuff and grommet issues and undoubtedly work to improve the jacket for v2.0.
There's lots of great reviews about this jacket out there (most of them are based on specs, though!). Don't write it off forever. And if you have one, that's great, just be careful with the cuffs and know that you're backed by a company that honors a solid warranty.
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