I'd like to use a 2-3 liter Kirin or Asahi beer can to make an aluminum pot, but this is only feasible if I can roll the cut edge. I know that heating the edge with a propane flame will soften the aluminum and make it less prone to cracking, but I don't know how to proceed from there.

Can this be done without a custom-machined die? Does anyone have experience rolling the edges of cut-down Fosters or Heineken pots?

Any tips are appreciated.

Hi Colin,

No need to roll the edge, just get a Good Cook Safecut® Can Opener
and it will open the beer can leaving no sharp lip.
They can be found in many grocery stores for about $13, or Google it to order online.

George, thanks for the tip. I'm familiar with that method, actually. I don't want a 2-3 L pot, though. The japanese beer cans I'm referring to are gigantic, and I want to cut one down to obtain a roughly 4-5" wide 1-1.5 L pot. So, I need to do something to smooth and reinforce the cut edge. I just bought a couple of these cans on ebay:

Edit, I couldn't find it...It was specifically referring how one can add ridges/waves in the can to strengthen it and not the lip though.

Edited by jordo_99 on 12/06/2012 13:01:37 MST.

Jordo,

http://www.instructables.com/id/Aluminum-Bottle-Tumbler-Cup-Cook-Pot/?ALLSTEPS

Click on "Jump To" and then on the 1 thru 10 numbered steps.

You can also click the right arrow on the "Jump To" button and see all 10 steps as you scroll down the page.

Party On,

Newton

Nice link. I knew I would find a way to kill time over winter break!

Newton,

That technique works well with the "thick" walled aluminum bottles. I do not believe that it will work the same way with a "thin" beer can like the heineken can. I have seen somewhere where you might be able to do this by first annealing the edge that you want to fold over. Best Wishes - Jon

John and Jon, thanks for the tips. I agree that the instructables method might not work with a thin walled beer can. In my experiments with soda cans, I found that the biggest problem is cracking of the edge when the can flexes. Maybe a cylindrical wooden block inside the can might help, by keeping it from flexing. The thin-walled cans just might not have enough material in the wall to stretch when rolling over the edge, though.

I also considered making a composite lip by putting a 3/8" wide strip of epoxy-saturated carbon fiber tape over the edge. It would be heavier than a rolled aluminum edge, I would guess. I would airbrush a thin layer of food-grade silicone sealant over it.

Even if we could roll the top edge the large diameter of the can is going to be a determining factor of how strong it turns out. I speculate it will be very flimsy. I think it would need quite a few ridge lines around the body of the stove such as the ones on a foster ridgeline pot.

Heating the aluminum is just going to weaken it.

Is that beer available in the USA?

Send me a can to experiment on or let me know when you see one on ebay.

Edited by zelph on 12/07/2012 16:55:11 MST.

See if you can find another can to make a ring.

If you decide to go the route as suggested by Michael Ray keep in mind what everyone at one time were concerned with. The Walmart grease pot had an inward rolled lip that would possibly grow some bacteria. There will be a lip on the inside of your can with that method.

Would that really be a concern when you're only boiling water? Each boiling cycle should kill off anything that may be present anyway I'd think.

It was just a reminder of the concerns about the walmart grease pot with the rolled inward lip. Overhanging lips collect stuff. Airborne bacteria are all around us. They like warmth, moisture and dark places.

an inward rolled lip? As in, toward the interior of the pot? Strange.

If you were just boiling water, I doubt a lip on the interior would grow much, due to a lack of medium. It's been a while since I took microbiology, but if any food got stuck on the interior you could definitely grow some undesirables. The food could act as a source of nutrition and as a protective barrier, and some types of gram-negative baddies can withstand boiling temps for up to ten minutes IIRC. When is the last time you boiled water for 10 minutes with an alcohol stove?

Anyway, thread drift.

Whilst the water may not reach more than 100C, the upper part of a pan might, since, if the water doesn't come up to the brim to cool it, the hot gases flowing up the side of the pan can get it quite hot. I wouldn't like to guess how hot; an IR thermometer would be the best bet.

I seem to remember measuring the exhaust gases from a clone as being about 200C (using an electronic meat thermometer.

Here is the link Kevin see what you think of it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU77XQpjrdI

Michael Ray suggested using another can as a source for a reinforcement ring in a Fosters type beer can pot.

Dan reminded us that there would be a chance of that method leaving a space for bacteria to grow and hide.

From a MYOG standpoint I would suggest using a food grade sealant applied to the ring and the inside edge of the can to "seal" out the little bugs from setting up housekeeping.



Mind you there could still be a "rough" edge where the ring ends and the sealant is at its thinnest.

FWIW Unless you are completely set up to add ridges to your can and are determined to install a MYOG reinforcing ring I think Dan has the best deal going on the Fosters type beer can pots.

http://www.woodgaz-stove.com/foster-2-cup-flat-bottom.php



As much as I like making my own gear, sometimes it just doesn't pay to tool up for a single item like a beer can cook pot.

I did soothe my MYOG ego a bit by adding my own SS wire bail to my Fosters pot that I got from Zelph's.



IMHO 1 Foster can, 1 aluminum lid, 2 plastic covers and 1 FREE Generic 1 cup capacity Ridged Flat bottom aluminum can for $17.00 + $3.00 shipping is well worth the money spent. It may also save some fingers from "sheet metal distress". ;-)

Party On,

Newton