Dribbling external fuel on the 12-10 stove to "prime it" is wasteful, except for winter conditions where there's too little vapor coming off the fuel to light it directly. Even then, priming doesn't do much to actually heat the fuel because of the double wall design, so it's inefficient. This stove doesn't normally require priming like some other pop can designs do, so it's more efficient and safer to light the fuel inside and let things heat up that way if it's too cold to start cooking right away.
So how to light the fuel inside the stove? Grab the nearest sprig, twig, grass blade or pine needle and dunk the tip in the fuel. Then light the twig and use it as a match to light the stove. As long as it's not too windy, this works excellently.
If it is windy, any lighting method is tricky and you'll have to work inside the confines of the windscreen or get out of the wind (best).
"I'm terribly intrigued by the fire steels I must say....those things look dangerously awesome."
They are very cool - a great backup fire source for sure. If you use one with an alcohol stove just make sure you are using it correctly. Pull the fire steel away from the stove, don't run the sparker down the firesteel towards the stove, or you'll inevitably hit the stove and spill fuel everywhere.
Also be aware that a fire steel stops being an effectively alcohol lighting method when the temps get cool. From about 20-40F using a lighter and twig works fine, but a firesteel starts to perform poorly below 40F in my experience as there is less vapor coming off the fuel for the sparks to ignite.
It does depend on what fuel you're using too. Ethanol lights easier than methanol at cold temps (due to flash point, vapor pressure etc). Ethanol is also about 20% more fuel efficient. Some 'green' denatured spirits (95% ethanol, 5% methanol) is usually the best way to go in America.