So, what are good 50-60 miles hikes in Glacier NP? It's someplace I've always wanted to go but about which I know relatively little. (Just ordered the Falcon Guide.) Since I'm not likely to get back there soon I'd like to make the hike as perfect as possible, so I'm starting my 2-year planning...

What I'm looking for:

1. Crowds as small as possible- I don't do this for the opportunities to socialize.

2. The classic Glacier views- mountains, U-shaped valleys, lakes, wildlife, etc.

3. So, some high and some down in the valleys would be ideal, but given a choice I favor high.

4. Not necessarily interested in bagging peaks, but not opposed either, should the route happen to hit one.

5. As mentioned, 50-60 miles or so. We have to fit this in around my hiking partner's spouse-imposed schedule, and that means 5 or 6 days on the trail.

6. I don't mind vague trails but would like to avoid overt bushwhacking (slow).

7. Likewise, a scramble is OK, but no mountaineering (i.e. ropes) please.

8. Loops are always nice, but not required. I could probably do a car shuttle, too. (Bus?)

9. Avoid the need for snowshoes. Microspikes would be OK. (See below)

NOTE- advice about dealing with bears is not solicited- the subject has been beaten to death. However, advice about trailheads, where to leave a car, etc., is always welcome.

Timing is vague- this far ahead I can plan the dates of the trip to suit the hike, but I'm definitely thinking 3-season, not winter. I could especially do something in the shoulder seasons if that is well-advised and avoids crowds, but would prefer not to need snowshoes or such. And I'm willing to take reasonable risks with the weather- I'm not delicate.

Edited by acrosome on 11/25/2012 21:10:37 MST.

Check out Dave's "A Lightweight Guide to the Crown of the Continent" as a starter. Note also that crowds are seriously dependent upon the time of year. September can be excellent in Glacier--if the weather holds and the fire season is not too strong.

Also, I'd avoid the Belly River unless late in the season. The area is spectacular, but given the combination of low elevation, relatively level terrain, and campgrounds every four or five miles, it is packed.

If I were you, I'd go north and go high such as the Boulder Pass (east of Kintla Lake) and Hole-in-the-Wall areas then down into Goat Haunt. From there you can get out to the Loop via the Highline or Flattop Mountain or get into Many Glacier through Swiftcurrent Pass. I don't much care for Brown Pass northeast of Bowman Lake at least if you are heading east. The trees along the trail are just tall enough to kill a breeze but not tall enough to provide much in the way of shade.

Or you can go south and link Two Medicine, Cut Bank, and cut over to Gunsight Lake and Pass to have a very nice few days. The Two Medicine Pass area is also quite excellent and spectacular.

The best options would be to do some off trail travel if you feel up to it. Gordon Edwards' A Climber's Guide to Glacier National Park is the definitive guide, and he has several off-trail routes that I'll be exploring this upcoming season.

Dean here is what we did, I was in the same boat as you and this trip will be one that is unforgetable. Fairly easy hiking, not to strenuous, with beautifull views.


http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=67945&skip_to_post=580403#580403

Any questions you can pm me and I will give you my phone # or email

Jack

Going in Kintla, over Boulder Pass and Fifty Mountain, and out the Highline to Logan Pass is probably the best intro 60 miler. Figuring out the car spot will be a pain, but is worthwhile.

Early to mid September is a worthy gamble, weather-wise. You'll see a lot of people on this hike in August.

Thanks, All. It's always especially nice to get the dope from locals. It seems that there are really only two (general) regions that are being recommended, though with many variations. I'll start researching these, but keep the ideas coming.

I am willing to go off-trail, but would prefer to avoid bushwhacking through thimbleberry jungles and the like.

And, yes, I'm thinking early September, but...

@Jack- what were the dates of that hike?

Edited by acrosome on 11/26/2012 09:19:22 MST.

Do you suppose the 45 mile Nyack loop merits inclusion in this discussion? I've not done it, but the solitude and wildness appeals to me. Maybe the grunt work involved isn't worth it for the few great views you get?

Coal-Nyack is a great hike (confession: never done it in summer), but the big views most come to Glacier for are lacking there, which is why I usually don't recommend it for first-timers. The southern loop I mention in my article (linked to by Clayton above) gives a good balance of scenery with more solitude.

Last month I was at a party and talked with the Walton backcountry ranger, whose beat is everything south of Lincoln Creek and east of the divide. She saw eight backpackers during her entire season of patrols. The other BC rangers would usually see thrice that many on any given day during August.

Dean, if you want to get adventurous buy Edwards' book and look into the Norris Traverse from Triple Divide Pass to Gunsight Lake. No bushwacking if you do it right, nothing worse than easy class 3, but big exposure in a few spots and route finding over Almost-a-dog Pass and down into Blackfoot basin that is quite unforegiving. Using this, Nyack Creek, and the trail along the Middle Fork and up Lincoln Creek to do a loop from Lake McDonald would be a great trip.

Edwards' book?

http://www.amazon.com/Climbers-Glacier-National-Regional-Climbing/dp/0878421777/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354193070&sr=8-1&keywords=edwards+glacier

OK, sure, I'll look at it. That hike sounds like my idea of solitude, but my partners are going to want the views.

Dean,

The dates were Aug. 27th-Sept 1st