I posted this in GEAR but will do it again here for those who mainly use this forum.

I'm seriously thinking of geting a SCARP 2 with a ripstop inner for winter.

I'll run the crossing poles inside the fly, from the apex of each corner CF strut pair using a small triangular Cordura pocket for the pole ends.
This is definitely not a "Shires approved" mod but it works great on my Moment. There I ran the pole ends back out through a reinforced hole the apex of the netting ends to the original pockets.

This mod should easily handle any snow load and likely make the tent less deformable in high winds.

So that's my plan unless anybody has some reasons why the Scarp might not be the best 2 person light winter tent choice.

P.S. I ordered the Scarp 2 and should have it this week. Then let the mods begin!

Edited by Danepacker on 12/11/2012 13:03:40 MST.

Hi Eric,

From reading your past posts I know you have been looking at the Scarp over the past couple of years so probably have read all the reviews and Bpl posts. I used the Scarp 1 for at least half a dozen winter trips in the Uk and really liked it but ended up replacing it when I moved to the US.

I had the Scarp out in 70mph and it worked like a champ but the cross poles are an absolute pain to put in place if wearing thick gloves also the cross poles pop out of the grommets at times.

To me the Scarp is a 3.5 season tent, don't get me wrong the Scarp is an outstanding tent, maybe with your mods it might do better but just be sure the cross poles do not abrade the the inner due to friction.

Cheers,

Stephen

So far these are my mods:

1. Purchased heavy duty main pole (larger diameter & heavier tube walls)
2. Sewed Velcro cable wraps inside the fly to the exterior reinforcements for the crossing pole straps. These hold the crossing poles in place & prevent fly flapping.
3. Seam sealed every sewn-thru area except the bottom hem.
4. Coated the top of the fly with 5:1 ratio of odorless mineral spirits to clear GE silicone caulk (& wiped it down with a blue paper shop towel for uniformity of coating).
5. sewed the crossing pole grommeted tabs into the 4 interior corners just above the triangulated CF struts. These will once again recieve the crossing pole ends.

The final step is shortening the crossing poles to fit inside the fly. That happens this weekend.

I have only two concerns, or questions---Does the solid inner touch your sleeping bag anywhere when you're atop your pad(s)? Especially the footbox at the end of the tent? Often this can lead to condensation wetting the bag.

Also---I looked on the TarpTent website and couldn't find the floor denier of this tent. Is it 30 denier? If so that is pretty thin when sleeping on snow/wet snow as the weight of your body could sponge in water (hydrostatic stuff and all).

Edited by TipiWalter on 02/08/2013 14:59:04 MST.

I have had my Scarp I on many a winter trip and have had no problems with setting up in deep snow or high winds. My bag has never gotten wet in the tent from condensation, and depending on where you are set up, you can get condensation. I have seen many 4 season tents not perform as well as the Scarp, but many people do not know how to properly set up a tent in winter.

I posted photos of the modded Scarp 2 on the GEAR page. It's "stout" and I'm satisfied it will take a lot of wind.

"Also---I looked on the TarpTent website and couldn't find the floor denier of this tent. Is it 30 denier? If so that is pretty thin when sleeping on snow/wet snow as the weight of your body could sponge in water (hydrostatic stuff and all)."

Hydrostatic head doesn't have anything to do with denier.

Dernier is the weight in grams of 9000 meters of the fiber .
So 30d means that 9000 linear meters (5.59 miles) of that fiber weighs 30g.

Edited by Franco on 05/12/2013 00:38:13 MDT.