I use a soldering iron to cut uncoated nylon. The iron sears the edges so they will not unravel.
I put the material on a piece of glass and use an aluminum straight edge. I cut it with a cheap pen-style soldering iron with a needle tip.
The glass is from an old picture, 18" x 24". It will get bits of melted nylon on it so don't use glass you want to put back into the frame. Put the glass on something durable in case you run off the edge of the glass... Don't want to scar a table. The straight edge is 3/4" x 1/2" angle from the hardware store. This angle gives room for my fingers as the iron passes by. I cut along the flat part of the 'L' rather than the Elbow or back of the 'L'.
Thicker nylon will make some smoke... With the Supplex mentioned in this article and if I had material smooth, there would be little smoke, if any. Making sure to cut through one layer of material is important; any folds or ripples make smoke.
With Momentum 90 from Thru-Hiker, there is no smoke unless I slip up and cut through a fold. With Momentum 50, even folds aren't too bad.
Who knows what volatiles are burned off when thick or folded material is cut.. so ventilation is good. That said, I cut indoors.
With a steady draw of the soldering iron against the straight edge, the edges are very nice. The Supplex would cut fine, but the lighter materials like Momentum have an edge that is so fine, I can't feel a ridge.
Time is saved in sewing. The edges will not unravel so no need for serging or capturing edges. For seams that don't need strength, I sew one row. For strength, I fold the seam allowance over and top-stitch. I don't know what that seam is called...