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Keep in mind that the updated total weights in the subject line do not include the 4 ounces of fuel and its bottle that weigh 106 grams / 3.7 ounces.
My idea of using a silicone "sip ring" wristband to pick up the hot pot did not work! The band did not keep the heat away from my fingers and after being stretched into place it was a little on the narrow side for my fat fingers.
I have another variation of an idea that was shown in another earlier thread on BPL using a wire "handle" that binds around the outside of the pot and locks into place. In this particular application the stainless wire bail idea seems lighter, less bulky and somehow more elegant and appealing to me.
The new smaller clone stove and lighter windscreen worked well.
Using the 1 cup generic pot a rolling boil was achieved in 3 minutes and 42 seconds using 10ml of ethanol fuel. Flame out occurred at 4 minutes and 56 seconds. It should be noted that these results were in my garage in 90 degree southeast Louisiana weather. I was using tap water and the temperature of the water was 80 degrees at the start.
I lit the stove from the side aiming my Bic lighter at the fiberglass wick material. The pot was not on the stove at the time but I see no reason why it wouldn't light in the same manner with the pot in place.
After lighting the stove got to full bloom in 4 seconds. I set the pot into place and dropped the windscreen into place around the stove and pot.
It is my goal to choose and implement a bail or wire handle method of lifting the pot. I could then retire my 19 gram MSR pot lifter.
In the future I would like to fill the stove, put the filled pot into place on the stove and then light the stove from the side as described above. I would then drop the windscreen into place and let the stove do its work.
The clone stove starts off with a well sized flame ring in relation to the pot. Later on during the burn the flames do tend to wrap up the sides of the pot. As the water begins to boil the flame starts to calm down and then dies out 1 minute and 14 seconds later. It is constructed from a cut down Vienna sausage can and a section of an aluminum beer bottle. I use 4 layers of 3M fiberglass cloth as the wick. After cutting it to size I fold it longways trapping the long ragged edges inside of the folds.
The stove size is 2 3/8" wide x 1 1/16" tall and the pot diameter is 3 1/4". I am entertaining the thought of building a smaller diameter stove in hopes of concentrating the flame ring under the pot. I really like the Fancee Feest stove design. I need to find some smaller diameter close fitting cans or aluminum bottles to build this smaller and hopefully lighter stove. ;-)
Party On,
Newton
Edit:
"I lit the stove from the side aiming my Bic lighter at the fiberglass wick material. The pot was not on the stove at the time but I see no reason why it wouldn't light in the same manner with the pot in place".
I was doing multiple test burns at the time that I lit the stove from the side. It worked well with an already "warmed up" stove that probably still had some alcohol vapors in the wicking material.
It would not light from the side with the pot on top of the stove from a cold start. It might still work if I dribble some fuel down the side of the "pot stand center ring" onto the wicking material and light it there.
NOTE: I haven't tried this method yet so it has yet to be proven.
BE CAREFUL WHEN EXPERIMENTING WITH ALCOHOL STOVES, ALCOHOL AS A FUEL AND "FIRE" IN GENERAL!
Party On,
Newton
Edited by Newton on 09/14/2012 16:07:20 MDT.
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