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Thanks to all of you that helped me prepare for this.
Arrowhead 135 Winter Ultra International Falls to Tower, MN Feb 5, 2007

www.arrowheadultra.com has a blog that covers the race and results.
Preparing for this race was much more logistically involved and specialized than any other race I have run and this preparation, in one form or another, took a year and a half. Hours of research on the Internet, examining countless gear reviews, reading Arctic exploration and mushing stories, asking questions on various forums, talking with friends in Alaska, ordering mounds of gear and testing it all in the mountains near Laramie where we were blessed with a real winter - plenty of snow and temps dropping regularly to minus 20 (f). Every aspect of this expedition was very interesting, but also time consuming. I modified and remodified my pulk sled regularly, even including adding a bungee system to soak up some of the startup shock. Training was just as exciting, requiring hours of pulling that pulk sled to work out the bugs and strengthen my hips and back. I ended up spending 4-5 nights in the mountains, pulling by day and sleeping at night. Everything came together a week before the race. I was ready for the minus twenty temps that they have had in the previous two years.
Although northern Minnesota had less snow than normal, they had just started the worst cold-snap in years, with a week of temps that never reached above zero. The forecast for the start of the race went back and forth, varying a few degrees on either side of minus 25. It was so cold leading up to the race that the airlines were unable to keep the planes moving, so my running buddy didn't show up until the day before the race. The plan was that we were going to stick together, which made me nervous - especially when I found out that A) he just got his cold weather gear last week, B) had no experience in below 0 temps, and C) had a poor season of training leading up to the race. MY plan was to mix running and walking and to snack and drink regularly and stop every 4.5 hours to melt snow, fill up my 100oz reservoir and eat a small hot meal. This plan had worked very well in my multi-day training sessions.
At the pre-race gear check, a bearded bear-of-a-man carefully examined the required gear, checking the sleeping bag tag for the -20 rating, quizzing you to see if you really knew what you were doing and then weighing your required gear. Mine weighed just under 18lbs, although all of my gear would be closer to 40-45lbs. Since it was so cold, I added overboots and an extra fleece top to my load, just in case. At the pre-race meeting the organizers briefed us on the rules, the trail conditions and told us that instead of a mass start we could start when we got there so we would not freeze while standing around - good idea! With my pulk loaded and double-checked, I slept fitfully the night before the race.
On Monday, Feb 5th, we drove out to the start area and hooked into our harnesses. It was minus 30 with a minus 45 windchill. The first wave of racers left at 7:25am. We were a bit behind them, checking out at 8:16. Although there is really only one official checkpoint during the race, at the 74 mile mark, there were actually a series of unofficial checks, allowing the race to be better broken up into smaller segments. The first segment actually was the only out-and- back in the race, taking us from the highway start, westward (into the breeze) for 8-9 miles to the official start of the Arrowhead Trail, where we would turn around and head back and past the starting area. It was a slow, cold start. My buddy informed me that he didn't plan on running any of the race, that it would be a long hike for him, and thus a long hike for me as well. Sigh. Fifteen minutes into the race the tube of his hydration reservoir froze up. I asked him if he had been blowing the water back out of his tube, and he didn't realize that was necessary. We fiddled with that and other gear issues on and off for the next hour. Stopping to do that at such cold temps is a great way to get chilled. The breeze was cold enough that I had to put my fleece neck gaiter over my nose, at which point the moisture from my breath froze into a thick ice mask that stayed with me the entire time. Not a huge problem, just an annoyance. I'd thaw it when I was able to get inside, somewhere, sometime. After getting to the turnaround and backtracking to the start over the sometimes grassy frozen marshes, we met the Brazilian runners coming toward us. They were wearing fur-covered Mad Bomber hats, full face-masks and snowmobile suits! Their sleds were huge. Although they are the organizers of the new Brazil 135 race they were completely inexperienced in the cold. Also, they decided to buy most of their gear when they got to International Falls, so ended up with propane campstoves (which would not work due to the cold) and bags of charcoal so they could light warming fires at the lean-to shelters every 10 miles along the trail. Charcoal? I guess I should have brought some bratwursts! After visiting with them for a few minutes we headed on toward the start area and the end of what we considered section one. Because of the extreme cold and slow pace (moving and drinking), the two inches of drinking tube that was somewhat exposed from my pack (only neoprene over it) froze solid. I went on, figuring that I would remedy this when I got to the 18 mile point. It took us another hour and half to reach it (5.5 hours total time for this section), leading to the start of my dehydration. I felt so put off of my original plan that I was flustered at this point. During our stop, my buddy decided to drop out and I set down to eat a meal. Putting my parka on over my pack allowed the hydration tube to thaw. After about 45 minutes I decided to start again. A race volunteer at this point told me that the convenience store at 41 miles (the next segment) was planning on closing at 8:00pm. I could make it if I hurried... So I pushed myself over this next 23 mile stretch. I pushed myself too much. This section was more pleasant than the first part of the race, winding through forests over nice, wide trails that had been packed by snowmachines. It was still cold, but the breeze was either blocked or at my back. There were two runners in front of me. I caught one just as the sun was dropping. His sled had broken and so we spent the next 45 minutes trying to fix it. The temp dropped dramatically when the sun went down and I should have put on a parka as I worked with him. I was going to stay with him until we got moving again. No way I was going to leave him here alone in the middle of the woods while the temps plunged toward minus 30 again. Luckily two volunteers on snowmobiles showed up and helped out. They watched the other racer carefully since he had started shivering badly. I felt free to move on and so started running a bit harder to try to warm up and also get to the store in time. I kept thinking "if I could get to the store, I could dry off, warm up, eat, get warm water and be ready to go on, but if it's closed... I dunno" All through this stretch I had to drink from my water every 5 minutes to keep it from freezing, blowing slush back into the reservoir a number of times. Finally, water stopped coming out - either I was out or it was frozen, but I needed to make the store, so I pushed on. By the time I was approaching the store, I was pretty damp, covered with frost and dehydrated. It was 8:30... sh#t! But the lights were on, people were inside, the store was open!!!! Yes! I dropped my sled harness in a snow bank and went inside - having wonderful food (pastries, cocoa, soup, gatorade) and feeling warmth. I dried my clothes in a dryer and thawed my water. In a little over 12 hours I had drank about 50oz, the rest was frozen up inside of my reservoir. My plan was to drink 100oz every 4.5 hours but got knocked off my plan and then felt the need to hurry to the store. Bad fluster! By not putting warm water in my res every 4.5 hours I allowed the entire system to freeze up! I sat and debated, talked with another racer who had 2" blisters on his heels and after two hours geared up and headed outside. I immediately started shivering, which I knew was a bad sign. It would be 15 or more hours before the next checkpoint (the only official one) and I would be out all night and morning, already chilled. So I decided to stop.
One of the racers is still in the hospital with toes blistered black. He was out all night, lost, disoriented and finally stumbling into the store late the next morning. His fingers were cracked and he had lost a tooth trying to open his water bottle. He will most likely lose some toes. The race organizer caught his toes just in time, as his feet were purple when he reached the checkpoint. He will be unable to run in the upcoming Iditarod Trail Invitational. I went out to meet the only runner to complete the race, Sarah Lowell from North Carolina. She was about 4 miles from the finish when I found her and looked pretty good for being out for 54 hours in that cold. She told me that she was not sure she would have continued from the checkpoint, but her extra inspiration was that her race was raising money for a student in her class with cancer - and much of the money depended on her finishing. Wow.
Quite an experience. I was disappointed at first, not so much from the DNF but more so since I was so easily thrown from my plans. A few more notes...
1) In a race like Arrowhead, self-supported over 50-60 hours with only one checkpoint, a strategy similar to that used by long-distance mushers is preferred - where movement is based on regular cycles of moving, feeding, resting. This cycle-based strategy can be contrasted to a typical dash for a checkpoint, followed by a period of trying to collect oneself for the next dash. (I wanted to do the former, and believe it would have worked well, but got pulled into the dashing.)
2) Systems tested with success at one temperature may fail at a slightly colder temperature, especially once temperatures slip below zero. The change from 60 to 50 degrees is a 10 degree drop, but the results of this drop are limited if even noticeable. The 10 degree drop from -20 to -30 or -30 to -40 becomes much more noticeable.
3)Footwear used: Thin neoprene socks, Montrail Susitna GoreTex XCR shoes with gaiters, Cresecent Moon overbooties glued to the toes of the shoes. Overall, this system worked very well. My feet did not get cold, even when stopped, although they did start to get pretty damp in the neoprene socks which resulted in one small blister. This could have gotten worse as the race went on. Also the overbooties stayed on the shoes and did not reduce traction - although I do need to reinforce the neoprene near the toes with some cordura for toughness. In the future I may try a larger shoe with Injinji tsoks as a liner, a vapor barrier sock over them and then a wool sock to complete the system. I may even try some mukluks instead of running shoes.
4) My neck gaiter iced up over my face. I may try a thin neoprene facemask with breathing cutouts (nose and mouth) and use a gaiter over that for insulation.
Edited by Alekat on 02/12/2007 13:15:24 MST.
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