I haven't seen mention of 303 Aerospace Protectant.

I used it first on my lifejacket. Looks new. That has been impressive.

I use it on my backpack, my shoes, and any fabric gear I want to keep looking good, avoiding destruction by UV.

I never thought to use it on my shelter. I take my shelter down in daytime, like you.

I gave up on tent floors long ago. First, I went to tent fly and footprint. Next, Outdoor Research Bug Bivy. Recently, to TiGoat Bug Net Bivy and Oware AsymTarp 1.

I use zipper lube or zipper lubricant on zippers. I also pull away about 45-degrees: zipper seem to like that. But check it out: zipper lube or zipper lubricant.

There are many brands available, because zippers often wear out first.

I have had the most expensive top name brand GoreTex. I rely on DWR instead.

What is so great about DWR is that Nikwax and McNett have DWR retreatment that works.

That said, my best most long-lasting perfect mountaineering jacket was British Ventile (pale green-grey with a more grey-green liner) purchased ages ago at REI. I got 15 years hard service when only the sewn-down-tight edges frayed, finally.

By the way, this experience was in the Pacific Northwest world of rain.

I have since seen this jacket with leather binding at the edges: pricey stuff.

I think if I purchased another British Ventile it would be an anorak with cord inside the hem and cuffs for a rounded edge, not a sharp edge.

I really love this subject: function and durability and reasonably lightweight.

Thank you, German Tourist for this thread.

The 303 Protectant may not be intended for outdoor fabrics, according to their website. Instead they recommend the fabric guard.

I will check out that product.

I have used 303 Aerospace Protectorant for decades. What would I know?

303 Aerospace Protectorant was recommended by West Marine hardware for lifejackets, specifically. It had photos on the hang tag. Lifejackets have pack cloth and cordura, among other things.

I have used it on my all my Therma-A-Rests, including my Prolite 4 sleeping pad.

I hadn't used 303 Aerospace Protectorant on anything too high tech, or, the newest fabrics. I wonder if this one would work on those. I will see if I can read the fine print. I would read the fine print, or, send a query about dyneema, etc.

I did notice 303 Aerospace Protectorant made all the stitching last. I have no problem with the stitching thread and UV. I see that has been a problem for German Tourist.

I have also had no color fading.

In addition, the straps remain supple: no hard and stiff pack straps.

Edited by ConnieDodson on 04/04/2012 08:44:56 MDT.

Sorry if I offended. The 303 website is a little hard to interpret when it comes to nylon fabric. Their MSDS did say it's not for textiles or unfinished leather (suede), which I guess nylon doesn't really fit? One area showed products for outdoor fabrics only included the fabric guard. Your experience seems to show it is safe for nylon.

My experience is entirely good.

Misunderstanding is understandable.

Their website is huge. The fabric product offering is relatively new.

In one place, they state manufacturers haven't given them testing results for ripstop nylon. In another place, a kitemaker page at their website, they like 303 Aerospace Protectorant for their thin nylon fabric.

I suspect the fabric specific product may work best of all with the new coated fabrics.

I did send an email query, listing specific fabrics for backpacking.

I didn't think to ask about FR (fire retardant) tent fabric.

Edited by ConnieDodson on 04/04/2012 17:26:55 MDT.

I'm late to the party here but wanted to share our experience re: zipper sliders.

There's a very close correlation between dust levels and zipper slider failure. We see sliders start to go on the PCT and CDT much faster than they go on the (much less dusty) AT. Dust/grime in the zipper teeth will physically spread apart the sliders and you'll notice that the zipper teeth start to have trouble locking. The short term fix is to clean your zippers and then use a small pair of pliers to slowly and carefully crimp the "jaws" of the slider(s) back together. By jaws I mean the wider, flared part of the slider that you can actually grab with pliers. Squeeze the top to the bottom, both right and left sides, slowly and carefully and then test. Repeat until the zipper starts to function properly. The longer term fix is to replace the slider. The good news is that it's a do-it-yourself project. We recommend cutting through the zipper teeth right at the zipper end and then sliding the problem slider out through the slit. Make the cut in the teeth on the narrow side of the slider so that you can insert a new slider back onto the teeth. Once you have inserted a new slider, sew up the slit with a few stitches to prevent the slider from coming off.

The best prevention against slider failure is to keep your zippers clean. Wipe them down after use and keep them lubricated.

For any Tarptent owners with problem zippers, we're happy to send out new sliders and a one-page instruction sheet.


Thanks.

-H

Thanks Henry

I occasionally throw something away that still has some life in it.

When you say "cutting through the zipper teeth right at the zipper end", do you mean at the top of a jacket or the bottom of a tent door? That is, where the stop is, and just zip the slider off the end of the zipper?

> When you say "cutting through the zipper teeth right at the zipper end", do you mean at the top of a jacket or the bottom of a tent door? That is, where the stop is, and just zip the slider off the end of the zipper?

Wherever the slider naturally slides to when you open the zipper all the way. That's the narrow end of the slider--the side where the teeth come out locked once they've passed through the slider. In the case of a jacket with separating zipper, it's probably better to do it right and unstitch the end (at your waist level) where you first start to slide up but the same principle applies.

Edited by 07100 on 04/05/2012 08:19:16 MDT.