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Addie Bedford
(addiebedford) - MLife

Locale: Montana
Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 01/31/2012 13:23:38 MST Print View

Companion forum thread to:

Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves

Jim W.
(jimqpublic) - MLife

Locale: So-Cal
Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 01/31/2012 15:23:12 MST Print View

Great report! (Just a little late for the TWO new stoves I bought last month). I appreciate real-world, but still controlled testing. I don't really care how well stoves work at 70 degrees- freezing or below is when you want it to work!

One question related to the canister stoves-
Were all the tests with full or nearly full canisters, or did you compare results as a canister approached empty? There's been lots of discussion related to the propane burning off faster than Isobutane so that the canister doesn't do as well as it nears empty.

Of course we seldom NEED to cook in the tent. It's sure a lot more comfortable though- out of the wind or falling snow, snug in a sleeping bag. In winter probably 90% of my snow melting and cooking has been in a tent or just outside the door. I'd rather carry steel propane cylinders and cook inside than carry light white gas containers and cook outside.

And finally...
When measuring time to go from frozen to boil- consider set up time and "fiddle factor". True the Reactor took 3 minutes longer than the Simmerlite. I have a feeling that the time from pulling the Reactor out of your pack to having a hot cuppa is going to be faster than the Simmerlite. There's no setup- while the Simmerlite has windscreen setup, fuel bottle attachment, pumping, and priming.

Mary D
(hikinggranny) - MLife

Locale: Gateway to Columbia River Gorge
Re: Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 01/31/2012 16:06:46 MST Print View

That pumping takes quite a while! I was on a group trip in the late 1980's. I had a MSR Whisperlite and everyone else had Bluet canister stoves. The rest of the group would have finished breakfast by the time I got my water boiling!

I'd also like to hear about the almost empty canister performance. Maybe run it until almost empty, put it back in the freezer and run another test?

Edited by hikinggranny on 01/31/2012 16:07:35 MST.

Hikin' Jim

Locale: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Re: Re: Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 01/31/2012 16:51:40 MST Print View

To Brad:

EXCELLENT report and a very good writing style I might add. A pleasure to read.

Very interesting results. I really hadn't given the Primus Express much consideration heretofore. And that's absolutely fascinating that the Reactor worked as well as it did in such cold weather. That's worth a separate report all its own.

A few questions, if I may:
1. I notice that a Coleman Xpert was in some of the photos. I'm wondering if you could comment as to why an Xpert (or Xtreme) did not make the final cut of stoves considered for the report.
2. I generally consider the "floor" of the WindPro's operational temperature range to be about 0F/-18C at 1013mBar pressure. Did you get a sense over the course of your testing whether or not the WindPro might be a better stove in the upper half of your -20F to +20F testing range?
3. Do you know when your Soto Muka was produced? I tested an early model Muka and found that I took me over 250 strokes on the pump to get the indicator to "pop out" (the bottle was about 1/7th full). I wonder if the pump I used was different than the one you used since you report that you didn't need more strokes than say on an MSR pump. Does your Muka include a production date on the packaging or stove anywhere?
4. And final question, even at the lower end of the temperature range, say -10F to -20F, were you still able to use a Reactor? And did you perchance try using the Reactor with a canister that was 2/3rds or more depleted (i.e. no propane left)?

Thanks for the great report, and I hope you have time to respond to my inquiries.

Adventures In Stoving

Tad Englund
(bestbuilder) - F - MLife

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 01/31/2012 16:56:15 MST Print View

Brad, good review.
I have to beg to differ with you about the dangers of white gas. You are probably one of the small minority that has never seen a fireball or flare up of a white gas stove. I have seen enough for the both of us, some intentional, but most totally innocent, all a major risk. If you spend enough time in scouting you will see the fireball- mostly caused by adults.
In the photo below (I've shared it before) my stove was being used by a retired Scout Master while snow camping. I had the windscreen around the stove and the pump/bottle outside the screen. I was inside the igloo so I didn't witness the pyrotechnics that could cause the pump to melt like that.
I've never had this kind of problem with a canister, inverted or otherwise.

Here is the pump up close
Melted pump 1

Here is the set up I was using, with the Scout Masters pump attached to my stove. Notice the melted pump in the top right. He had the same stove and pump! I had my Coleman there for my own use thinking he knew how to use the white gas stove since he had the same stoveMelted pump 2

Edited by bestbuilder on 01/31/2012 21:09:02 MST.

Nick Gatel
(ngatel) - MLife

Locale: Southern California
Re: White Gas Explosions on 01/31/2012 18:19:43 MST Print View

Yes, white gas can be dangerous and so can a Q-tip if not used properly. That picture is a good reminder of that.

I have used white gas stoves for 40 years and have never seen a fireball or explosion -- probably because I am usually by myself. Most of this has been with Svea 123s and two MSR Stoves (a Whisperlite purchased in the 80's and a DragonFly purchased a few years ago). I still have all these stoves and still use them occasionally. Over the years I have talked to others who have experienced problems, and all seemed to point to the same problem: user error. Most important is to follow the directions. Check gaskets and o-rings as instructed, and with MSR perform the annual maintenance. This is what I do not like about the MSR stoves -- the complexity of the pump and the required maintenance, which I perform faithfully. Also important with the MSR is to lube the needle and properly insert it into the pump. Do all of this correctly and it is very unlikely you will experience a problem.

Bob Gross
(--B.G.--) - F

Locale: Silicon Valley
Re: Re: White Gas Explosions on 01/31/2012 18:38:58 MST Print View

"Check gaskets and o-rings as instructed"

This was always the important part, to me.

If the MSR pump required more than a dozen or so strokes, then it was a sign that either the fuel bottle was too full, thereby having little air space to pump pressure into, or that the pump's leather gasket was dried out, so the pumping was poorly effective.

Once I got in the habit of oiling the leather gasket before each trip, that problem went away. A field substitute for oil is Chapstick.


Brad Groves
(4quietwoods) - MLife

Locale: Michigan
questions on 02/01/2012 09:23:57 MST Print View

Just a quick answer to some of your questions-

Several wondered about fuel level in the canisters... I ran them from full to empty. Each canister was designated a stove, ie I labeled one for the WindPro and one for the Reactor. The Reactor burned a canister to completely empty having been used only in the deep freezer conditions; the WindPro likewise burned all its fuel. The WindPro distinctly burns better at the higher end of the temperature range of testing... see the very last chart of the article, where the temps hovered around freezing.

Tad, I've seen melted pump parts before, no doubt... but as mentioned, that's due to operator error. If a stove isn't properly maintained and has leaky gaskets, well, yeah, you'll have problems. With the most cursory, occasional eyeball maintenance I've never had such a problem in over 20 years of using these stoves. Scouts... Hey, I'm an Eagle Scout... I know about the Scouting system, and the kids I went though with and have taught since, well, I know they could find a way to bugger something up given the opportunity. We always just deeply stressed responsibility and respect; it's on the kids to act like adults, in a sense. But, yes, I generally recommend canister stoves for 3-season Scouting.

HJ, I've found that pressurizing ANY nearly-empty white gas bottle takes a whole lotta strokes. I'd guess that a MSR 22-ouncer at 1/7 full would take around 200 strokes for full pressure, though it would certainly operate with fewer... note that the Muka would probably also operate with fewer, though, for both, perhaps not as "optimally." I didn't keep the xpert in because, first and foremost, they're not made any more. My recolection is that it also took the longest of all the stoves tested to reach a boil in the severe conditions outlined... I'll see if I can find data from the xpert just for grins-

EDIT: Oh, just a note on operational "friendliness:" I never bleed the pressure from my white gas bottles during a trip. I pressurize the bottle, use the stove, and continue pressurizing as needed throughout the trip. End result, I never have to start "from scratch" to pump a bottle all the way up, maybe 40-ish? strokes? Never bothered counting, wasn't a big deal-

Edited by 4quietwoods on 02/01/2012 09:30:18 MST.

Michael Matiasek
(matiasek) - F - M
update figures on 02/01/2012 11:13:23 MST Print View

Thanks for the great review! A small request: Could you update your figure legends to include more information on where the data comes from. I am having a hard time telling whether the water used started as a block of ice or not. It would be great to see a volume boiled under the legend and temperature of the water initially. I suspect it is elsewhere in the article but it would be great if you could include it in the legend for clarity. thanks!

Craig Rowland
(craigr) - MLife

Locale: Pacific NW
Svea 123R on 02/01/2012 12:51:28 MST Print View

Maybe outside the weight requirements for the article, but I'll mention the Svea 123R. I have used a number of white gas stoves through the years and that Svea 123R always works. It's what I take in cold temps for snow camping now. It can melt snow and always works. The lack of a pump and extraneous moving parts makes it very reliable. I also like that the fuel tank is attached to the stove. No pumping is required and I don't get fuel sprayed all over me when disassembling it. I've seen some nasty fireballs with some pump stoves.

The stove weighs 19 ozs. But when you consider the tank is built in and doesn't need to have a repair kit carried it is comparable to modern stoves. The tank holds about 1 hour worth of fuel which is more than enough for 1-2 day trips.

I have a review of mine posted here:

Svea 123R in the snow.

Thanks for your review. I like seeing gear tested in less than optimal conditions. It shakes out the problems quickly.

Edited by craigr on 02/01/2012 13:07:05 MST.

Addie Bedford
(addiebedford) - MLife

Locale: Montana
Re: update figures on 02/01/2012 13:34:51 MST Print View

Michael: the volume of water was always one liter, and the other information you request is simply in the caption below each figure.

Michael Matiasek
(matiasek) - F - M
Re: update figures on 02/01/2012 14:11:47 MST Print View

Thanks for your fast response! I think the data would be more clearly presented if the 1 L were added, why make the reader search for it? I will leave it at that.

Also, in the second figure the legend refers to cold tap water. Can you clarify what temperature "cold" is?


Brad Groves
(4quietwoods) - MLife

Locale: Michigan
3-season values on 02/01/2012 17:22:21 MST Print View

Nope, Michael, I don't have a temperature for "cold," which is why I used the somewhat open-ended word. Given that we had a significant amount of data on sub-zero performance, I wanted to get an idea of how the stoves would perform in more "real-world" 3-season-type conditions that many users would face. The testing conditions for the second set of values were, therefore, not as controlled. Stoves and fuel were placed outside to reach ambient temperature; water either came cold from the tap, or from the tap and then put outside to sit with the stoves and fuel. Some days were in the 20s, some in the 40s... The point was to develop a general feel for moderate-weather performance, to round out or balance the deep cold aspect of the research.

Nick Gatel
(ngatel) - MLife

Locale: Southern California
Re: Svea 123R on 02/01/2012 17:37:05 MST Print View


I have a lot of experience with 123s and just love the stove, although I don't use it much these days due the the weight. It is my favorite stove of all time.

In serious winter conditions, I much prefer a MSR DragonFly or even a WhisperLite. The Svea tank can only really hold about 5 oz of fuel, so one still needs to carry an extra fuel container for most trips. It cannot hold a candle to a MSR for snow melting, IMO.

Tad Englund
(bestbuilder) - F - MLife

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Re: Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 02/01/2012 19:09:02 MST Print View

Brad, I agree with you about stoves and maintenance. My comment was more geared about people paying attention to what they are doing. The scout handbook requires adult supervision when operating a stove (any kind) but it has been my experience that the Adults are the ones who need supervision.

Last winter we had a dad carry his stove around his igloo site with the valve open spilling almost all the fuel in his large size bottle. He couldn't see it because of the snow. Why/how he didn't smell it is beyond me and thank goodness he didn't light it before someone noticed the fuel smell. It took all night for the smell to dissipate. Needless to say no one lit a match in that area.

Again, I have found Adults are the ones how need the supervision. That is why I prefer not to have white gas stoves around.

I purchased a couple of the coleman's Xtreme's for the troop and have had no problems with them or the operators.

In the photo above the temperature was 16*, it was down to lower then 13* during the night with the stoves left out. Both stoves Xtreme and Dragonfly boiled water in about the same time- I didn't noticed and difference.

The Coleman Xtreme is no longer made but but you can still purchase an "Xpert" which would have been nice to have in the review.

Brad, you had a Coleman in one of your pictures- any info on how it preformed?

Mark Rash
(markrvp) - M

Locale: North Texas
Thanks on 02/01/2012 21:29:13 MST Print View

Thank you for a great article! I have an MSR Reactor stove and I've always been amazed that they don't get more respect here. There was a discussion here some time ago about how the JetBoil was much more fuel efficient than the Reactor, but it would seem from your tests that the Reactor more than holds its own when it comes to fuel efficiency.

I'm taking both a Reactor and Windpro to Philmont in June and I'm very confident they will work great!

Thanks again.

Sam Haraldson
(sharalds) - MLife

Locale: Gallatin Range
Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 02/01/2012 22:44:43 MST Print View

Love all the car references in there, Brad. The comparison to an AMC Eagle had me giggling. Once again, a well-written article on a topic worthy of this kind of inspection. I have gone away from, come back to, gone away, come back, etc etc etc my Whisperlite but as you mention in the article, white gas is simply the go-to winter fuel.

Paul McLaughlin
(paul) - MLife
Reactor questions on 02/01/2012 22:58:19 MST Print View

Brad - nice work. I have a couple questions about the Reactor. First, in your carts the pot for the Reactor seems to be listed with two differnt weights. In the first chart, with stove weights, pot weights, feul container weights and combined weights, it shows 11.1 oz, while below that in the cahrt that has just pots, it shows 7.7 oz. Am I reading this wrong or is there an error there?

Secondly, I'm wondering if you noticed any significant thermal feedback to the canister from the stove.

Doug Johnson
(djohnson) - MLife

Locale: Washington State
Re: Re: Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 02/02/2012 00:42:23 MST Print View

Agreed. Great review Brad- it was great to learn about a couple of new stoves. When I saw the Powermax canister in the freezer it really caught my attention. The discontinued Coleman Xtreme was a favorite among many, myself included. I have a sizable stock of canisters and am always watching eBay for new ones. I've also considered getting the adapter, but in the back of my mind I keep thinking that maybe it would be smarter to go back to my Simmerlite...or something else.

I would love to hear your comparison of the Xtreme (the former heavyweight champ) compared to some of these new ones. I know it's kind of pointless to create a review that finds that the best stove is no longer made, but a few of us would love to hear your findings.

The Primus EtaPackLite is the other one I look at. It would be really cool to see a Primus EtaPackLite vs. Primus Express Lander- an inverted isobutane vs. white gas comparison.

After years of futzing with canister stoves in igloos and mountaineering, I dismissed them and went back to white gas. The Coleman Xtreme changed my mind completely about what a cold weather stove could be. I'd love to know if there is actually an improvement somewhere....


Damien Tougas
(dtougas) - BPL Staff - F

Locale: Gaspé Peninsula
Reactor Question on 02/02/2012 06:15:07 MST Print View

There is something I don't understand here...

How is it that the Reactor can use up every drop of fuel in the canister? At cold temperatures some fuel will remain as liquid, and unless the canister is inverted, will never make it out the valve. When things get really cold, do you have to keep your hands wrapped around the canister, or does enough heat from the stove radiate down to keep it warm?

James Marco
(jamesdmarco) - MLife

Locale: Finger Lakes
Re: Svea 123R on 02/02/2012 07:24:30 MST Print View

Yeah, the 123r is perhaps the most reliable and most fuel efficient WG stove made. However, most deep winter campers don't care for the heat output. At ~4500-5000BTU it does not do well for melting a larger volume of snow (more than half a liter;) it takes a while.

James Marco
(jamesdmarco) - MLife

Locale: Finger Lakes
"Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves" on 02/02/2012 07:46:59 MST Print View

Great review! I use the older SVEA stove for most camping, all the time. WG is as safe as canister gas. They both have issues but have you seen a canister explode? I have. Right out the side of a Coleman. A potential fireball from WG or explosive gas from a jammed valve on a canister can both be bad news. Different, but equally problematic. Using alcohol can result in a major spill all over you camp gear, too. It just takes common sense to use any stove. All are potentially dangerous.

The Simmerlite uses a LOT of fuel. Easily 3 or 4 times that of the SVEA. And it does NOT simmer. Desides the full output for melting ice and snow, it is often a part of my camp chores to cook. It fails in this area. As you said, cheap, light...a Toyota.

Brad Groves
(4quietwoods) - MLife

Locale: Michigan
Questions on 02/02/2012 08:50:15 MST Print View

Hey, y'all-

I only ran a few tests w/the xpert, because, well, a state of the market-type report on a discontinued stove just wouldn't make sense. For what it's worth, though, in one "deep-freeze" trial the Powermax/xpert took about 21 minutes to boil versus about 7 minutes for the Primus, 7:45 Simmerlite, 10:00 WindPro, 11:45 Reactor. In one of the more "general" test runs, the Xpert took about 9 minutes longer than the Lander to boil on slightly less fuel.

Damien, don't know what to tell ya. I ran the Reactor empty, several times. Shake it, nothing in there. Weigh it, nothing in there, open it, nothing in there. I'm not concerned about theory, just what is recognizable and usable in the field, and the only way you could've told whether there was technically any amount of fuel left in the canisters would have been with a gas-sniffer and a microscope.

EDIT: Oh, Doug- the other Primus would be the Express Spider, the remote canister version of the Lander. This article was conceived primarily as a white gas stove article, and for the comparison of canister stove: white gas I chose to go with two well-known, nearly identical models for comparison. But yeah, it would be interesting to also compare the Spider to Lander.

Edited by 4quietwoods on 02/02/2012 08:53:17 MST.

Roger Caffin
(rcaffin) - BPL Staff - MLife

Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe
Re: Questions on 02/02/2012 13:28:20 MST Print View

Hi Brad

> in one "deep-freeze" trial the Powermax/xpert took about 21 minutes to boil versus about
> 7 minutes for the Primus,
Blimey! I don't know what went wrong there, but something did. My Xpert is never that slow - in fact it always give very good performance in the cold.
One possibility is a slightly blocked jet. Strip and check.
Another possibility is that the canister was not properly connected to the stove. This is a known (user) problem with the older model, and means the Lindal valve is not opened properly. How many tiny O-rings does your stove have on the connector?


James Schipper
(monospot) - MLife
Reactor on 02/02/2012 13:36:12 MST Print View


I'm sure Roger Caffin or some other members could give a more complete answer (or correct me if I am completely wrong) but I suspect that first thing that gives canister stoves problems as the temperature drops is a lack of jet pressure rather than an absolute paucity of vaporized combustible material. The reactor says it has an internal pressure regulator which provides more consistant pressures at colder tempertures. I'm not quite sure how the "internal pressure regulator" works, perhaps someone else could wiegh in.

Edited by monospot on 02/02/2012 14:15:36 MST.

Brad Groves
(4quietwoods) - MLife

Locale: Michigan
Re: Re: Questions on 02/02/2012 17:04:58 MST Print View

Hi Roger-

Yeah, horribly long time... but remember that I was also testing the stove something like 25*C colder than you tend to use stoves. Also of note, I had two of the xperts, and cursory, comparative results between both seemed correlative. "Fair-weather" use around freezing had the xpert boiling a liter in about 5.5 minutes. In another, colder round, the xpert took about 14 minutes to boil vs. 5 for the Lander. Given that I was essentially playing with the (discontinued!) stove, seeing how it compared to the actual test stoves, that was plenty enough for me. That said, anyone have questions about the stoves we covered in the article?

I hoped that the videos would help people get a better idea of the stoves, how they set up, how they burn at different power levels, etc... and I know I've wondered how different items looked from different angles... any feedback on that, folks? Is/was the video helpful, or did I just succeed in giving poor Addie a case of heartburn? Is the video a "feature" you would like to see on future reviews?

. .
(biointegra) - MLife

Locale: Puget Sound
Re: Deep Freeze: A Cold, Hard Look at Winter Stoves on 02/02/2012 17:15:18 MST Print View

Thanks for the article, Brad. Nice work. I have used white gas stoves for decades (well 2 of them anyhow) and am now a recently converted Jetboil advocate. This is chiefly because of the Sol Ti. There have been impressive reports of it's ability in colder weather, although perhaps not quite as cold as your testing protocol. As for me, 0 F is about as cold as I find myself out in using a stove. For that, I have retired the pumed red cylinders and opted for more Sol.

From their website:
J.J. Justman, Senior Guide, Mountain Link said

"The Jetboils worked perfectly all the way up to [Everest] Camp Four at 26,000 feet! I personally was so impressed that I took a Jetboil to Pakistan on my climb of Broad Peak (K3)."

[Camp 4 estimated avg. temp during climbing season is between -25 and -15 degrees C]

They recently introduced the SUMO Ti, which should compete rather more directly with the Reactor and have far less CO (one of the reasons the Reactor has been unpopular here is it's extreme CO emissions recorded). It comes in around 12 oz. and could probably be made less with some careful mods. I plan on purchasing one of the SUMO Ti pots to go along with my Sol Ti and use it during winter in the PNW, which is not all that cold really. Deep cold? I would venture to guess that it would perform similarly to the Reactor, but weighs 7 oz. less. Any thoughts?

Edited by biointegra on 02/02/2012 17:20:38 MST.

Jim W.
(jimqpublic) - MLife

Locale: So-Cal
JetBoil Sumo vs. Reactor pots on 02/02/2012 17:21:05 MST Print View

I went to REI to look at the Sumo pot. It is still pretty narrow- I think the new Reactor 2.5 pot is going to be a lot better for melting snow. The Reactor puts out way more BTU than the Jetboil Sol in warm temps so it is probably going to do the same in cold.

Remember gas (butane/propane) canisters do better the higher you go because air pressure is less. Just because it works on Everest doesn't mean it will work lower. I'm going to do a test tomorrow morning at 8,000'/freezing temps to see how that compares to sea level.

. .
(biointegra) - MLife

Locale: Puget Sound
Re: JetBoil Sumo vs. Reactor pots on 02/02/2012 17:24:56 MST Print View

Yes, the altitude plays into it, but it is impressive nonetheless. This article makes me interested in doing some side to side tests with my XGK, which has been my go-to winter stove since I was a lad. It did fail me once, however, on a climb at about 12,000.

David Thomas
(DavidinKenai) - MLife

Locale: North Woods. Far North.
Re: JetBoil Sumo vs. Reactor pots on 02/02/2012 17:56:01 MST Print View

>"Remember gas (butane/propane) canisters do better the higher you go because air pressure is less."

To the extent that butane and butane-mix canisters can exceed the lower atmospheric pressure at altitude to a lower temperature, yes, they do better at altitude. In that one respect. They will perform when the canister is 5 to 10F colder than at lower elevations.

But less atmospheric air also means less oxygen per cubic foot of air. How ever many cubic feet per meter of air pass through the burner at sea level, the same will at elevation but that volume of air will contain 75% as much oxygen (and nitrogen) at 7,500 feet. 58% as much as 14,500. 50% at 18,000 feet. 45% as much at 20,320. Just like our lungs or an gasoline engine, with less dense air, a burner can't burn as much gas. So (1) max output is down and (2) with less oxygen flow, there's the chance of more CO and unburned fuel vapors, expecially at full throttle and against an ice-cold pot.

I look forward to the results of your 8,000' test. Look for signs of a rich mixture (yellow flames) and if excess fuel gas is combusting outside of the normal blue pre-mix flame compared to sea level.

Jim W.
(jimqpublic) - MLife

Locale: So-Cal
Stove@altitude on 02/02/2012 18:20:33 MST Print View

So true. I've used the Jetboil PCS at 14,000'. It smelled like it wasn't burning very cleanly. No problems under 12000.

Doug Johnson
(djohnson) - MLife

Locale: Washington State
Coleman Xtreme- down the road on 02/02/2012 18:59:25 MST Print View

Hi Brad,

Thanks! I really appreciate the information (and yours too Roger). I can see my path- use the Xtreme until I run out of canisters and then, rather than picking them up for $12 each on eBay (no joke!), I'll just cruise back into white gas country. It was fun taking a ride in the Prius, but the Ford will work too. It was good while it lasted! Thanks for showing a few different options!

And I liked the videos. I probably could have gotten a lot out of just one video per stove, but I enjoyed all of them and found it useful. I also appreciate how thorough you were in your testing. It's hard to follow Roger in this regard but I think your balance of detail and commentary was clear and also enjoyable. I enjoy both of your styles.

Oh- and if anyone out there has a case of Powermax they want to sell, just let me know!

Thanks again!

Michael Ray
(topshot) - MLife

Locale: Midwest
Re: Videos in reviews on 02/02/2012 20:03:31 MST Print View

> Is the video a "feature" you would like to see on future reviews?

YES! As long as you can see relevant details, videos are superior to just pics.

And I'm also curious how the Reactor defied basic thermodynamics to empty an upright canister. What gases did those canisters claim to have?

Edited by topshot on 02/02/2012 20:05:11 MST.

Tad Englund
(bestbuilder) - F - MLife

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Re: Re: Videos in reviews on 02/02/2012 20:12:19 MST Print View

I like the videos but maybe you could talk during them. On the first one I thought my sound wasn't working until I put on Pandora to see if it was the computer or me.

Roger Caffin
(rcaffin) - BPL Staff - MLife

Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe
Re: Re: Videos in reviews on 02/02/2012 20:26:45 MST Print View

Hi Michael

> I'm also curious how the Reactor defied basic thermodynamics to empty an upright canister.
The answer is probably rather simple, especially if the stove had a windscreen around it. I suspect the hot air did a bit of recirculation inside the windscreen and warmed the canister.

There's been a lot of talk about running stoves at -40 C. The reality is that the canister is almost *never* at that temperature. Direct radiation from the flames, warm air recirculating, water in a bowl - many sources of heat. Starting with the canister coming out of your pack (or from under your quilt) is always good as well - a warmer start.


Paul McLaughlin
(paul) - MLife
Re: Re: Videos in reviews on 02/02/2012 21:10:39 MST Print View

"And I'm also curious how the Reactor defied basic thermodynamics to empty an upright canister. What gases did those canisters claim to have?"

The real question is not how it defied thermodynamics - it didn't. The question is how it used thermodynamics to do what it did.

Michael Ray
(topshot) - MLife

Locale: Midwest
Re: Reactor performance on 02/03/2012 07:24:26 MST Print View

I know there are ways you can get uprights to work in cold. However, Brad started with cold canisters, no windscreen (for the Reactor) and with the canister sitting on snow (at least in the one pic).

Brad, if your equipment allows, can you measure the temp of the top of the canister over the course of a boil? It must be getting enough heat from the burner/pot combo to keep going to the end. Would that provide too much heat when it's hot out?

Brad Groves
(4quietwoods) - MLife

Locale: Michigan
testing, video on 02/03/2012 09:35:27 MST Print View

Paul, exactly- thank you.

The particular questions on the Reactor are based on performance figures I obtained through testing for this article, and as noted, at no time did a canister (or a white gas fuel tank!) receive any kind of assistance. I wanted to see how they performed, in severe cold, without coddling. There was no water bath or heating pad or windscreen or any such thing involved. As the video shows, my hand can nearly touch the Reactor pot and burner assembly, so no, it doesn't put out much heat. For the grins of it I made a contraption out of copper wire, made a couple loops each around the pot and canister, a few doubled strands connecting them... no difference in performance. Also of note, I shot some more video, (but it didn't come out for beans) showing the Reactor, assembled, in the freezer. Opened the freezer door, opened the valve on the Reactor, lit the Reactor w/a ~20% full canister. Honestly, I don't care WHY it works, so much as the fact that it DOES work. The only possibility of added warmth during testing would have been rim contact with the ground, but as my "light it in the freezer" round went, I'd guess that ground contact didn't make much difference.

Thanks for the feedback on videos, all! I debated about whether talking would be a distractor or not. Next time will use "condensed" videos, probably not give so much exposure for showing ranges of performance, etc.


Ron Bishop
(Compass) - MLife

Locale: Ontario
Soto Muka on 02/07/2012 15:34:16 MST Print View


I've never used a white gas stove, as my overnight hikes have always taken place in the warmer weather when I use either alcohol stoves for solo trips or canister stoves for family camping. Having said that, over these past couple of winters I've done a lot more day hikes on snowshoes, so buying some extra winter gear for overnight trips would seem like a natural fit.

You definitely peaked my interest with the commentary & photos of the Soto Muka, so I think I'm going to do some more research and buy my first white gas stove. Thanks for an interesting & entertaining article.

Edited by Compass on 02/07/2012 15:41:01 MST.

Eric Blumensaadt
(Danepacker) - MLife

Locale: Mojave Desert
MSR Dragonfly on 02/29/2012 12:31:43 MST Print View

I consider the MSR Dragon fly one of the top 5 winter stoves. It can simmer lower than any liquid fuel stove I know of and can be very hot at its maximum. Low simmer is important for baking and warming to save fuel.

The Dragonfly is extremely reliable if the pump is properly maintained yearly. Yes, it is the heaviest MSR stove but it has many redeeming virtues. The one nitpick I have is that I had to file tiny V notches all along the wire potstand top surface to give more friction on the pot bottom. This would be an easy fix for MSR to add.

karl hafner
(khafner) - MLife

Locale: upstate NY
pressuring stove on 08/12/2012 09:21:40 MDT Print View

after leaving an msr stove pressurized all night at 30 below F and finding I only had enought fuel left in the morning for breakfast due to a crack in the aluminum I could never recommend that you leave a white gas stove pressurized when not in use. That sure ruined the trip.