I just finished a pack I plan to use on the AT this year. Previously, I have used packs in the 12 ounce range made mainly of 1.3 oz silnylon. The problem is the abuse a pack gets on the AT and during transportation to and from the trail, including hitches. I felt something stronger might be better, even though it might weigh more.

This new pack weighs 21 ounces. The main body is Spectra grid fabric weighing about 4.5 ounces per yard. It has a large sleeve pocket and a pouch pocket on each side to hold water and fuel. The sleeved pockets will protect the pack if a bottle leaks, and net bottoms will let any leakage drain. The sleeve construction permits compressor drawstrings to work under the pockets. (A frameless pack must be packed tightly, and loads can vary radically on the AT.) A large pouch pocket with a liner and net bottom on the front of the pack will hold the ponch/tarp, stakes and groundsheet when wet and otherwise to keep the raingear handy. A detachable possibles pocket on the front accepts a cord shoulder strap for carrying it separately on public transportation. The main compartment is a top opening, roll-down straight-through bag 12X8 in cross section, 39 inches high. The top 16 inches are 1.9 ounce silnylon. The bag is highly contoured for a close fit.

I'll give a report on this design works out. Maybe next October.

Vick,

I'd like a sneak preview of what you have created can you attach a photo?

Regards

Roger, Roger.
Having trouble with my editing program or the interaction of the spectra grid with the camera or something so some of the pics are squirrley. The detachable pocket is shown detached on the right, if you can see it.

The side pocket showing the sleeve and the compressor cords on left pic and the bottom of the front sleeve pocket on the right. Sorry about the quality problem.

On left is the cord running from one loop on the top through another loop on one side of the roll-down top. When the cords are pulled, the center of each side folds, the top is then rolled and the cord is secured with cord locks as shown on the right. The folding arrangement in the left hand pic keeps the roll-down top from having long "ears" that pull down on the sides. One of the Velcro-attached, adjustable shoulder straps shows in yellow to the right of the cord lock. One of the over-the-top cords - which I know are not strictly necessary - also show in the right-hand pic.

Edited by vickrhines on 01/13/2007 22:02:23 MST.

Vick,
When do you plan to be on the AT this year?

Bill,
Depending on how harsh the weather looks, late March or the first of April. I don't want to mess with weather that stays below freezing.

Vick nice pack!

I agree with what you said about thru hikes being tuff on the lighter less durable fabrics. The trade off of a little more weight and a lot less stress over how your pack is going to survive the long haul is worth it.

The material you used in your pack resembles the Dyneema gridstop that Golite / Ray Jardine used in their Breeze
packs.




Regards

I think it is the same material. I got it from Thru-Hiker. But I like my design better. I like extra pockets and compressibility. And it is sized for my gear, but oversized for the AT. I still have not figured out why the grid pattern is so hard to photograph with my camera. I suspect there is some interaction between the scanning and the grid size.

very nice pack Vick,
Just a question, open to all for the matter, what are the smallest size cordlocks you can use that will have the strength to hold compression cord around a backpack? or is that a non-issue? what size cord did you use Vic? I've got a montbell balance 30, and trying to cut some weight.
again nice pack, and hope to see you and bill out on the AT this year :D
mike!

I used jamb locks. Which you can't get anymore. REI used to have them but now the folks there just look at me like I'm the customer from hell. Which, of course, I am. Official title.

What you want are devices that lock harder under load and don't depend on a spring for their tension.

Jamb locks are coin-sized plastic jobbies with a hole across the middle and ridges on the sides of the hole. You see this idea used for cleats on light sail boats. Pull the cords outward and they jamb into the ridges. Pull them straight out and they release. No springs, positive hold.

You could use the type of cordlock REI sells - it is a triangular 2-piece lock. A toothed wheel moves up or down inside the triangle and jambs or releases. It's a good system, but comes in only one size.

Edited by vickrhines on 01/15/2007 10:56:08 MST.

thanks, I found some wheel locks at seattlefabrics.com, and will order a few and see if they have what it takes. I dont have an REI around here, and EMS doesnt really have much in that hardware department, so we'll see.
mike!