Bryce, basically these are sharpened like a chisel or plane iron in the sense they are ONLY sharpened on ONE SIDE. You will find the other side will sharpen fine provided it is lapped clean periodically, that usually means taking the knife appart and flattening (lapping) the whole surface.
A concave, flat or convex grind on the other side can de added per your choice.
Concave: Flatter & straighter cut, a more delicate edge, thinner edge, stays sharper for longer when honed, easy to touch up on a leather hone.
Flat: Somewhat higher angle cut, less straight, less delicate edge, thicker edge, can get dull quicker, but holds an well sharpened edge longer, much more difficult to hone to an extreemly fine edge, but possible. More splitting of wood than concave grinds in use. Sort of a compromise.
Convex: More controllable, but also least straight cut. A rugged edge, the rounded grind, typical of most "scary sharp" sandpaper sharpening systems, also leads to a lot of dull seeming edges, even though they can remove your hairs from your forearm. Really, not well suited to honing much beyond a #2500 or #4000 grit wet/dry paper. Honing on a leather doesn't help them enough to bother with, generally.
I have 4 sets of chisels, each ground and sharpend a bit differently. Often the thick set of mortising chisels is often refered to as dull. These work great for deep cuts, and splitting out chunks of wood. My fine paring chisels are hand use only. I would not dream of striking them with a mallet. But both are 1/2" chisels. Only the grind really makes them different. My pocket knife has a flat grind on the back, near the handle, becoming convex near the front as the blade thickens. For small splitting chores, anything less than an 1" - 1-1/4", I start near the tip. For nothing I start near the handle. YMMV.