Jason, very valuable experiences thanks. I did get an email back from the same question to TT from Henry, which is basically yes 105cm is the minimum.
I'd not thought of deliberately pitching a little lower and then extending the pole to tension a saggy silnylon. Useful tip!
Puzzled how you make a fixed pole vary in height? What pole is that? I was thinking of the Black Diamond Distance FL pole. My body height seems to match the 120cm pole which happens to cover the range required for the Notch (20cm lower to 100cm which as you and Henry say is absolute lowest up to 115cm). So for example it can be raised to 120cm from inside to help with saggy silnylon. I am total poles newbie so to avoid a very stupid mistake on my part my plan was to pitch the Notch (I had delivered today!) in the garden, I got with TT's poles) and just experiment myself, dig some little holes in the garden to simulate a shorter pole, measure it all, then go down to REI and measure the poles to be 100% sure it will be a good fit.
Yes, different stakes, I've done that with all my shelters. I've usually used stronger longer ones for the guy lines to do the job of "tent on ground". Yes, pegs pulling out of soft ground, I was thinking of that also pre-purchase, its a problem I'm fully aware of, and I discussed in another forum.
The shape of the Notch has quite a few steep angles (helpful for condensation runoff) but obviously will tend to lead to peg-pulling tendencies. Tent ends? Is that where the struts are? I have ideas of my own to figure out, give me a few trips out and I'll not be a newbie so much. I don't know much about tent peg names currently but I know what the ones I want look like, basically longer to stay in in soft ground, thicker metal for less bending when being wacked, and a rounded end to wacking hard. I've also find some pegs you have more flexibility WHERE to put them - guy pegging specifically, but some pegs you don't. The Notch's first pegs are the vestibule ones, so you can use a strong peg there and move the pegging point to get a good grounding, then rotate around so the other vestibule pegging point also has a good grounding. Then the corner struts, which unfortunatel TOUGH you have little flexibility there, so ironically some toothpick pegs can find a better place than some thicker pegs, and FINALLY the guy pegs which is where you can do some serious grounding and I'd put the most metal in the ground, possibly have to use some additinal guying points to get some symmetry of tension.