thats really nice . whats surprising is that you have what appear to be compound curves with a 'rigid' material like cuben.

Thanks. Do you mean with the 'billowing' on the sides behind the door? It does/should pitch a bit wider at the front, i think that curve was just loosening material at the front side seam, fascinating material though..

I'm considering removing another 1 1/2-2" from the main (ridgeline) seam (taking the curve lower), it does take a lot of front/ back force on the ridge guys to pull tight through there. May end up more a bivy like foot end but for a solo tent i don't see a problem?

Edited by bankse on 10/12/2011 21:07:14 MDT.

I concur.

Wow.

How did you learn to do that? The design especially / how to know the shape of panels to get it to work? Is there a single resource to read or do you have to trawl the MYOG threads here?

Stuart

I don't think it is so difficult, they are all flat panels. I built boats, canoes kayaks but not much experience with fabric. I would probably add traditional features and try for a design that someone else has built (pattern would be nice). The rest is info gleaned from the good folk posting their ideas on here ; )

She looks great Paul. Your design looks like it serves your high wind resistance purpose very well.

So, are any of the Cuben seams stitched or are they all bonded? Do you expect any condensation issues with your intended use?

How's your Shelter holding up Paul?

That is one beautiful job!
You could consider using two carbon poles for the inverted 'V' suggested.
If they were 5' long each, plus ferrules, the pole set and the V-shaped elbow would be in the 4-5 oz. range using very durable materials. The V could be slightly bowed for stability, as while the carbon is very stiff, it still has some flex.
Should you decide to pursue that, please PM me for sources of materials.

Sorry, haven't checked this for a while. So far so good. I have a number of tents, use a bivy for guiding so the little tent has only has a few weeks pitching. All the seams were bonded.. well, before I added any liner. I use a walking pole Samuel, it will still pitch ok at a fair angle but I might add a carbon pole or two at some stage, the walking poles are a hassle to carry through our scrub with a small pack.

A couple of weeks back I made an inner, kind of a half inner. It may seem all wrong, a bit of an experiment but therein lies the fun : ). Posted to our Ozzie forum if anyone is interested:



http://bushwalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=7726&start=60

Edited by bankse on 03/02/2013 19:31:15 MST.

"I would like to find a way to draw the knot right up to the D ring, no linelock. I was thinking some form of prusik but it would need to act in a similar way to a lineloc, not just half the cord.."

Paul,

Wouldn't replacing the D rings with the linelocs achieve this? (I may be misunderstanding the question)

Daryl

> OK, perhaps a bit of overkill?..
In SW Tassie? The concept does not exist.

Cheers

> To achieve the necessary elasticity, I want to use shock-cord.
Don't.
Fow ALL windward anchors use 2 mm or 3 mm nylon cord. Do NOT allow any movement.

Cheers

Roger,
I have a 7'by20' tarp over the open front of my woodshed and this year tried securing it with double guys of heavy shockcord, heavier than you'd want to carry for a tent.

After replacing the shock cord three or four times, switched to nylon cord. No problems since. Funny thing was that for a while, I could not even find the remains of the shock cord. The wind just took it away. When a few pieces finally survived attached to something, the wind had ripped off the covering, then severed the rubber inner.

So plus ten for your advice. BUT, haven't you mentioned something about using elastic cord at your stake pull-outs to keep your tents taut when the nylon sags?
Please let us know why one and not the other. Thanks.

Hi Daryl, I have replaced the door tie outs with linelocs. I wanted to keep D rings at the foot end for now.

The only bungy iv'e used is on the mid-length tie outs (which are just pegged with enough tension to hold shape)(these might be better with cord loops but there really isn't much distance to tension them) and on the mid height guylines (which I haven't needed to use as yet)

There are a few things that I would do differently. The peaks and tie outs would be tough with half the fabric weight for eg... which would likely result in cutting 150grams (5oz) or so. Its at a stage now where building another shelter be easier.

Edited by bankse on 03/03/2013 19:37:47 MST.

Paul, So I know you mentioned that the tent was designed for strength and resistance to the elements but out of curiosity, what is the weight on that bad boy? By the way it looks great! Nice Work!

Hi Zach. Thanks. I'd say that if it was built with mainly weight in mind, lighter side panels and floor, lighter tie outs etc- would be more like 650-680 and a could be a bit higher, the width works well.

Edited by bankse on 03/16/2013 03:02:33 MDT.

Hi Sam,

"So plus ten for your advice. BUT, haven't you mentioned something about using elastic cord at your stake pull-outs to keep your tents taut when the nylon sags?
Please let us know why one and not the other. Thanks."

Shock cord and bungees are basically rubber bands. And I'll admit to having tried using shock cord as part of a tensioning system for my tents and tarps. At first my application relied simply on the shock cord at the tie outs. Before I field tested this I was shown the error of my ways by other posters on this site and moved on to this design.



The basic idea here being that the guy never depends solely on the shock cord. In practice the shock cord is stretched out until the guy line itself is under tension. Hopefully during the night if the shelter material "relaxes" the shock cord will help to keep the pitch taut.

FWIW the guy lines themselves are Triptease.

Here is the link to the original thread for anyone who is interested.

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=29236

Here is a picture of these guys in use.



As you can see some of the guys aren't as tight as they should be but it does give a good visual of the design concept. While in use, if the shock cord fails, the guy line is there to keep everything from tumbling down. ;-)

Party On,

Newton

Newton,

That photo is the best visual I've seen showing this technique. Very helpful.

Daryl

Wild,

If you want to keep the D rings but cinch things up closer to the ring you might try adding (tying on) another D ring so you have a double D ring. It would work like a double D ring belt works.

I used this technique on a tent I made about 40 years ago. I used two round flat rings instead of D rings. The round rings were more like flat washers than rings (Boeing Surplus).

If you decide to replace the D rings here's a way you can do it without cutting the webbing.

here