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Bob Gabbart
(bobg) - F
Which route on Rainier? on 12/25/2006 16:55:03 MST Print View

What route on Rainier would you recommend for one's first time on the mountain? I've taken a nine day mountaineering course in Alaska (and will do some climbing in the NE between now and then) so I feel I have enough experience for one of the simpler routes and will be going with two other guys of similar or more experience. Also, why is DC the most popular route?

Thanks,
Bob

Tom Kirchner
(ouzel) - MLife

Locale: Pacific Northwest/Sierra
Re: Which route on Rainier? on 12/25/2006 17:36:55 MST Print View

Hi Bob,
The "DC" route is definitely the most travelled, which has the advantage of having more(and more highly experienced-RMS guides) help available if anything should go amiss. That said, you might consider the Emmons Glacier route. It offers a similarly structured climb, with Camp Schurman being the traditional 1st night bivy site at ~9600'-analagous to Camp Muir at ~10,000' on the DC route. It is definitely less crowded and more straightforward, basically a direct line up the Emmons Glacier-no Disappointment Cleaver to deal with, and there are enough other parties on the route to provide help if one of your party should happen to end up in a crevasse. The Disappointment Cleaver area presents a definite objective hazard to be aware of; a number of people have been killed there down through the years. Just some thoughts. Do your research and decide for yourself. Either of these routes would be a good choice for your first attempt. All the others are remote and/or too technical for a first ascent where ALL members are first timers, IMO. One other thing; if you want to make it a bit less of an ordeal and have the time, you might want to consider camping at Paradise or the White River area on the Emmons side for a couple days and do day hikes up to Camp Muir or Camp Schurman before your ascent. It's not time enough for total acclimatization, but it will help. The problem most people have is leaving, say Seattle, in the AM, driving to Paradise or the White River campground, immediately hiking to Camp Muir/Schurman at ~10,000/9600', sleeping(ha ha) 4-6 hrs, then going for the summit. That's basically sea level to 14,000' plus in ~24 hours. A lot to ask of most bodies. Best of luck. On a good it's definitely one of life's great experiences.

Meir Gottlieb
(mcg11)
Re: Re: Which route on Rainier? on 12/25/2006 18:07:29 MST Print View

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Edited by mcg11 on 12/25/2006 18:08:11 MST.

larry savage
(pyeyo) - F

Locale: pacific northwest
Re: Re: Which route on Rainier? on 12/26/2006 15:39:48 MST Print View

A little bit of planning is in order with this seasons flooding and washouts. A lot of access has just disappeared.