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White Mountain Presidential Traverse
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Stephen M
(stephenm) - MLife

Locale: The Deep Frreze
Re: Overboots? on 11/20/2013 14:13:17 MST Print View

That person only posted once 5 years ago so may not reply to you.

Will Elliott
(elliott.will) - F

Locale: Juneau, AK
1 on 11/23/2013 14:48:59 MST Print View

I'm from the opposite coast so my reply isn't tailored to your specific route. Based on the gear list in the first reply, though, here are some thoughts based on similar trips in AK and the west. The original respondent knows more than I about your area, so I guess defer to him.

>g14's with the walking spring

Overkill below WI4. The steel Air Techs will climb vertical ice and are much nicer to walk in. G12s are somewhat heavier with better climbing and poorer walking. The front points break off the aluminum Air Techs if used on too much steep ice. Yes on the walking spring.

>lightweight trango mountaineering axe.


>a picket.

Short one?

>an icescrew.

Long one for v thread?

>three biners.

I have found Neutrinos and other little ones perfectly OK with huge gloves

>8.1mm beal randonee rope

Love it

dyneema runners...

> lasport trango extreme leather boots

I haven't worn them. My Nepal Evos are OK to around -10F, maybe. I would put my money in some of the new synthetic double boots if it's really going to be subzero and you are going on to colder and longer things. If you have plastic boots, get intuition liners.

>extra socks, 1 pair

Yes, absolutely!

>cannister stove w/ heat exchanger gear

MSR Reactor + shovel + parka = stove, tent, and sleeping bag. I have not had good experience with Jetboils on multiple winter outings. Maybe they just needed more finesse. Reactor rules.

>.75 liter thermos

No. Wrap nalgene in clothes.

> 3liter platypus

Do you need to carry so much liquid if you have a stove?

> 1 liter nalgene widemouth


> silkweight top w/ arms cut off

Yes. Helps keep arms loose.

> mid weight top
> union suit
>mid weight bottoms

Are these either-or? It seems like a lot of binding layers. I would just wear a powerstretch or powerdry unionsuit over the tshirt. Invest that weight in a warmer parka and boots.

> hardshell bibs

I would opt for lightweight shell pants stored in your pack, and wear warm softshell pants, which I think are easier to move in and more comfortable. On a trip I once brought nice shell pants and was continually zipping and unzipping them to vent (when I couldn't stop to adjust layers); now I just wear softshell pants and sweat if I need to. They dry fast in the cold. If your upper layers are long enough, you shouldn't need bibs. Sew a skirt of fabric on the hem of your expensive shell jacket, if needed.

> softshell jacket

no, unless you expect abrasive rock climbing.

lightweight hooded windshell

> fleece jacket, 300weight polartec equivalent

Thin down or puffy jacket.

>belay parka

Yes. Wild Things belay parka is awesome— nice and long.

>belay pants



Yes. Huge ones. With removable puffy liners to fit over your gloves. My hands are too big to do this, unfortunately.

> Gloves

Breathable softshell

>pack without lid, frame and extra straps: no more than 2.5 pounds.

I like the Granite Gear Virga, at about a pound, for this sort of thing. The collar goes up to your waist for emergencies.

> ascent skis.


> hiking poles

yes. Whippet? I don't know the route...

> 1 goo every 30 minutes

If you have a dehydrator, you can make fruit rollups out of apple sauce. These produce less garbage. You can also buy maltodextrine and mix it with protein powder, salt, vitamins, and flavor, to make your own Gu. Keep adding the DIY powder to your Nalgene. I like Gus but I hate the sticky trash.

> 2 ramen for lunch

I don't think Ramen are worth the space and trash, though I guess legendary feats have been accomplished on Ramen... How about oatmeal packets, which can be consumed with cold water and powdered milk.

+ sausage or jerky. Protein, protein...

> 2 clif bars for lunch/dinner

Yum. You can make your own.

>1 freezedried soup for dinner

plus olive oil or cheese or nuts

>+3 ramen, +5 goo emergency food

You could make some brownies with good stuff

>tea bags and sugar

I'd skip this and just bring powdered drink mix in a little container. It seems simpler.

> 3 chocolate bars with highest possible level of cacao and butter

Yes! They do horrible things to cocoa between when it's on the tree and in a candy bar. Buy some fancy ones that haven't had the butter taken out and then put back in. If you like nuts you could buy the cocoa beans and eat those.



> sunglasses


>expedition weight top.

what is this? another shirt? If so, skip





>integral designs mk1xl tent

shovel and tarp, or BD Firstlight, etc. I don't have a bothy bag, but I have wished for one while sitting out in the open melting snow or resting.

>40d down sleeping bag


+ etcs like a sparker/lighter, knife, blister stuff

Have fun!

(RobertM2S) - M

Locale: Lake Tahoe
Need HUGE mitts? Look for snowmobile mitts on 11/23/2013 19:32:49 MST Print View

Re: "mittens. Yes. Huge ones. With removable puffy liners to fit over your gloves. My hands are too big to do this, unfortunately."

I bought a pair of snowmobile mitts years ago that go over ANYTHING! Synthetic. I don't remember the retailer.

Zach V
(Overshot03) - F

Locale: North East
Conditions / gear update on 02/10/2014 04:52:20 MST Print View

Has anyone completed this route in the last couple of weeks? If so, is it feasible without an axe, and crampons? (Microspikes, and moving fairly fast?)


Jason F
Re: Conditions / gear update on 11/25/2014 14:01:37 MST Print View

Was poking through this thread and I know this last post was close to a year ago but I feel I should add that microspikes are not suited for the northern presidentials.

I was climbing Madison via Watson Path last week and thought I could get away with some lighter gear. Big mistake. Microspikes cannot penetrate the hard ice and they can also peel off your feet. I lost one that day before turning around. Had no idea cause I was more focused on moving safely through 60 mph winds. Can't believe I found it on the way down which made things much easier. Hillsound makes a light crampon, not to be confused with their version of Microspikes, which is the minimum I'd use early in the season. Certainly not in the middle of winter.