So I tried to make a stove and when I tested it the JB Weld turned to ash and it fell apart...well not exactly, but the JB Weld is gone.....I let it dry for over 24 hours so it should have been cured completely.....It is supposed to stand up to 500 degrees, so I would need something that is even more heat resistant.....RTV has the same 500 degree advertisement, and I don't know what the temp. is on Gorilla Glue (It just says extreme heat)

This is the stove I tried to duplicate...FWIW...'Great Value' pineapple cans fit perfectly into the quart paint cans from Lowes

http://www.backpackinglight.com/cgi-bin/backpackinglight/forums/thread_display.html?forum_thread_id=14765

Hi,

Somewhere on the JB Weld package it says "do not use near or allow contact with open flame". It will take a very high temperature (heat resistant) just doesn't work when it comes in contact with fire.

I found that comment after - well I will go into that.

All epoxies carbonize at temperatures at 450-500°F in the presence of oxygen. Ethanol flame temperatures are in the neighborhood of 2,000°F depending on the fuel to air ratio. You would need to confine your search to inorganic materials such as polysiloxanes. Unfortunately these materials have some serious drawbacks such as poor adhesive strength and extreme brittleness. Perhaps a rivet would be a better way to go?

Have you tried heat resistant tape?



HJ

I second the suggestion to look into mechanical fasteners like rivets. I've made quite a few wood stoves of various kinds, as well as alcohol stoves and a butane stove, and after a lot of research I completely gave up looking for high-temperature adhesives for this application. I tried the most heat-resistant silicone on the market (a Cotronics product advertised to 800F), metal/ceramic-powder-putty epoxies like JB Weld, intermediate-temperature solvent cements like "Hi-Temp Lab Metal" (up to 1000F), and ceramic solvent cements advertised to 2000-3000F, and they all failed.

There are tapes made of fiberglass, metal foil, ceramic fabrics, Kevlar/Nomex/PBI, and Kapton (polyimide) film, but they need an adhesive, which is typically a silicone. So, they are no better than just using a silicone adhesive by itself, which only works if low bond strength is acceptable and temperatures stay below about 600F.

There are bonding agents that are plenty strong, but they can't take the heat, and there are high-temperature cements, but they have the strength of a saltine cracker. You just won't find any glues or tapes that are reasonably strong and survive temps above 600F.

Spot welding, brazing, and silver solder can be a tidy solution if you have the skills and equipment. Rivets, nuts and bolts, and other fasteners can work but often don't look very neat. I've also successfully "sewn" perforated metal pieces together with wire and fiberglass or ceramic fiber thread. Crimping an overlapping tag or tab-in-slot attachment can work well with sheet metal, too.

Edited by ckrusor on 09/01/2011 18:21:18 MDT.

I failed to add that my advice on the viability of high temperature adhesives isn't as a hobbyist but rather as an engineer who has worked for seven years in the industrial coatings and adhesive market. So my remarks above aren't opinion or conjecture but rather first hand knowledge. Adhesives are remarkable for sure but sometimes the right adhesive is metal.

If you're copying the dual-wall wood burner, I don't see any need to use glue. You just need to ensure that you cut holes that are the right size...

Since any air pressures involved are tiny, there's no need for air-tightness in joint between inner and outer can.

The cans simply need to nestle together snugly.