> The pot is a Miller Lite can bottle (in inches)
Sounds similar to the Budweiser bottle, but with a screw cap, rather than crown cap.
> The Burner is bottle cap (from a Venom energy drink bottle
I've used similar-sized bottle caps for bottle 'pots'. The small flame is usually a good match.
I generally use an inward-facing jet ring red bull burner for normal pans, but even this tends to spill flame up the side of a bottle.
> 12.3 ml.
Ought to be enough to boil about 400ml of water.
> The screen is held together with paper clips
The slot and tab joints I use on my clone might be useful here, save losing the paper clips, and less faff to use.
A clone isn't a bad solution to the problem of pot support and windshield. Have a look at this thread, especially the later pictures. The silicone wrist band (in 'junior' size) is a possible solution to supporting the can. Otherwise, a ring of another bottle rammed onto the 'shoulder' of the bottle, and opened up at the lower edge also works, if somewhat precariously.
A clone also helps trap any heat spilling up the side, making the system more efficient. But, as Matthew observed on the thread above, you need to provide adequate exhaust holes at the top, taking account of the small diameter of the top end of the cone. Hence his request for a modification to the script.
> Test heights for the pegs are at 2, 2 1/2 and 3in heights from the bottom of the screen.
That may be a little too high. Try 1" gap between burner and pot.
> The cap is the burner which also makes the can useful for carrying water.
DNA in the UK (methylated spirits, or 'meths') has multiple-whammy deterrents: purple dye, methanol and Bitrex. So I wouldn't want to use a burner as a water bottle cap in the UK, as Bitrex does a very good job of tasting bitter... I'm very careful not to get meths on my hands when doing 'proper camp cooking', as even traces of Bitrex taints the food.