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I'm one of those "whiners", as Vlad Putin describes us, who is not a fan of traditional ragg wool clothing because it itches. However, I've become a tremendous fan of merino wool.
The difference in coarser wool and finer merino wool is the thickness of the strands or fibers of wool. This is measured in microns of thickness. Traditional wool socks (ragg wool) are made from relatively thick fibers of wool (25+ microns). When a thread breaks and fibers stick out, thicker fibers poke into the skin and create an itchy sensation. The level of sensitivity varies, but for most people, the thinner fibers (< 23 microns) curl down rather than poking into the flesh. Thus, merino wool socks are incredibly comfortable to me and they are my preferred winter wear socks. They also wick better than any other fabrics I know. The Merino label generally is applied if memory serves to wool of about 22 microns or narrower.
However, this still leaves a great deal of leeway in quality of merino wool. Stuff at the 22 micron end may still cause some irritation to the more sensitive areas of the skin, such as the chest. Finer merino in the 19 micron range might not.
This link may help give more technical information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wool
I've enjoyed tremendous performance from merino wool socks, though they are far too warm for me to be comfortable in summer heat, when I switch to coolmax Thorlo light hikers.
But in terms of base layers, my experience is more limited and disappointing. Last year I eagerly tried REI's new merino wool lightweight top and bottoms. (I work for REI and got a great deal on them.) But I was very disappointed. As soon as I tried them, my chest and back began to itch substantially. I tried washing them as I've heard this usually alleviates the problem. I washed them four times and the itch only marginally dropped. In the end, I got rid of these. However, the REI merino wool clothing line was discontinued last year, which leads me to think that perhaps the company was using an inferior grade of merino wool (22 microns) and I will be much happier with a higher end version. So I am currently ordering a Smartwool merino wool microweight crew, and I'll try it in the Smokies over Christmas vacation.
As for poly/merino wool blends, I can report my absolutely favorite sock is of such a type. The Bridgedale Ascent sock is a mix of Merino (68% roughly), (Coolmax 28%), with the rest a blend of Lycra for fitting. This sock is as close to a year-round sock as I have found. The wicking of merino is still there, with the faster drying time of a synthetic. I wore them last year down into the teens and while hiking, I was warm-footed. I did notice a chill if I sat still for more than 20-30 minutes. In the summer, I have worn it in temps above 100 (on the Colorado Trail this summer in Waterton Canyon) and found them as tolerable as one could hope for in the circumstances. On this same through-hike, they remained comfortable in temps down into the 30's. It combines much of the best of the two styles IMO.
Edited by Bearpaw on 11/24/2006 10:58:09 MST.
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