Thanks for the help. Sounds like I will be shivering a lot with the current clothes. I've worn the same alpine climbing in AK in February, but there wasn't any sitting around.
I enjoyed Ryan's video, but am leery of bringing an 85L pack and plastic boots.
Re: Bob's comments—
You might be a little too thin on the insulated jacket. What you have now would not have gotten me through it five or ten times.
-OK, will add a second micropuff. I'm down here for school and left a lot of comforts (belay jacket & pants etc.) at home. 8 degrees, huh? I expected warmer!
For the tent, I would select one that is the most wind-worthy. If it is a little snug for three guys, then that is OK. That will help keep you warmer. It's only for two nights, right? Four snow stakes might be a little thin, but that depends on the tent. If you have cord, you can bury shovel parts or snowshoes in deadman fashion. I always carried at least one big snow fluke.
- 4 stakes + 2 axes, + a windwall of snow. I will collapse the tent flat when we leave for the top, mark it with GPS, and if it snows, find it by the snow wall or coordinates when we get down.
A 30-degree F sleeping bag is pretty thin. You will likely freeze your butt unless you have on every stitch of clothing inside the bag. The worst bag that I ever carried up there was a minus 10 F down bag.
-I normally wear all my clothes and sleep inside my backpack. But I will see about bringing 50 degree quilt to add to the bag. I don't have a warmer bag and don't want to rent a 0 degree.
One really dependable stove is all you need to melt snow for three. Select the one that sits lower, or can be wind-shielded easiest. Digging a snow hole is part of that.
-yes, I advocated for that; the other two just bought their stoves and are going to carry them anyway.
A Camelback is OK for going up, but something more indestructable is better for the descent. I generally carried two one-quart water bottles, and I kept Gatorade in one of them. You can use a lot of water on the bottom half of the mountain where it gets hot.
-I may bring one of the huge white nalgenes, then, plus a small clear one to put in my bag at night with hot water.
A Snowclaw is better than nothing, but a Lifelink is better. An all metal shovel is better yet, but almost overkill. If you are on the standard route, it is common for all strangers camping near one another to borrow and loan snow shovels.
-OK, we will bring one metal shovel instead.
Whatever you carry for food, make sure that half of it can be eaten without any cooking or water. You can go a long way on cheese and cookies.
-For lunch, I bring jerky, dried fruit, logan bread, and something sweet for the water bottle. For dinner I bring potato mix, olive oil, nuts, parmesan cheese, and drink it as soup.
Of course there will be all sorts of small items like TP and duct tape. You want to stick some duct tape around the sharp part of an ice axe until you need it. A loud whistle might be handy, as is a standard first aid kit. Good tape gets used a lot up there.
-OK, will bring duct tape. I keep it in the pack, though, so it's in good shape for using over blisters.