I was inspired by all the packs that have been showing up in this forum lately and have just finished my first attempt. I'm happy with most of it but was kicking around ideas for my next one. I attached my straps in a similar fashion to a Golite Pinnacle, meaning I put them on an arc to somewhat match the slope of my shoulders. The XPAC fabric that I used didn't like being turned up into an arcing seam and resulted in some sloppy sewing. As a result I would rather attach the straps horizontally as in this pack My question is to those who have packs without sloping straps. Is there even a difference in comfort; or do the straps form to your shoulder's slope regardless of the angle of attachment?

Edit: Apologies as I could not get the link to open in a new window

Edited by amknapp4 on 04/12/2011 19:13:49 MDT.

I have been using the webbing mounted shoulder straps on all my packs, because I think it stronger method to attach the straps. I just simulated the curve by cutting the top of the shoulder strap about 1/4 to 3/8 inch higher facing toward the center of the pack.
Your two pack straps should have the higher part of the angle facing each other attach at the webbing the center look like this for example /\


Terry

Aaron,

Let me say this ahead of time. This explanation will probably come across as clear as mud.

I sew my straps into a seam where the pack body and pack extension go together. I'll space them anywhere from 2.5" to 3" apart from each other. That is 1 1/4" to 1.5" each way from the centerline of the pack.

My pack straps are angled outward somewhat. From their point of attachment there is approximately one half inch offset from the side of the strap closet to the center line to the side of the strap closest to the side of the pack. This results in the ladderlock end of the strap ending up just a little outside of the pack body.

My straps are curved but not S shaped. They are relatively straight for the first 2/3rds and then curve outwards at the ends.

In theory the straps should only curve over your shoulders and downward in front, around your torso as they make their way back to the webbing that is used to adjust the straps. From the pack to your shoulders there should be an air gap of sorts. There should be some space where you could see daylight. Ideally the straps should leave the pack at something close to 90 degrees and not start curving until they go over your shoulders and downwards towards the adjustment webbing.

My most comfortable pack to date had 3" wide shoulder straps with 3/8" CCF padding. My latest pack has 2.5" straps and 3/8" CCF padding but there is also a padded removable hip belt on this pack.

"...or do the straps form to your shoulder's slope regardless of the angle of attachment"?

Barring any outrageous angles or 90 degree perfectly straight attachment my answer is yes. The straps should more or less form themselves to your shoulders.

"The XPAC fabric that I used didn't like being turned up into an arcing seam..."

All of my pack's shoulder straps have been sewn in using straight seams even though they were angled outwards.

Take a look at Jay Ham's article on 5 Yards to SUL, tarp, pack and stuff sack in the MYOG articles section.

I hope this helps.

Party On,

Newton

Most older frame packs addressed this problem by attaching the top of the shoulder straps to a loose clevis pin that would go through the frame's cross bar. The shoulder straps could then adjust to any angle.

Thanks for the replies guys. When I get to critical steps like attaching straps, sometimes I get caught up in replicating an existing product and shut my mind off. Not a good habit. Your explanations make it seem so easy. Thanks

My first pack was the G4 kit from Quest Outfitters. That pattern is a thing of beauty. It was made from real paper (not thin stuff that will rip like you find sometimes) and had everything marked on it, including the angle of the straps. Just like the others mentioned, it angles the straps rather than curving them around. That pattern uses a 3" wide strip of fabric to cover the straps and reinforce it a little instead of webbing. Not sure if you need it with the explanations above, but the pattern is fairly inexpensive, and I was able to base much of my second pack off of it as well.