"you will have to come up with some neat way to pitch the tent"
Don't know how neat it is, but the plan is with the tent spread on the ground and a peg holding the rear awning if need be, then at each canopy end two poles will slide under the canopy edges and over the netting, through the break in the netting at the cross point, and then be pointed and pushed to the general vicinity of the internal elbows. Ditto, the other side. There will be zip sliders at the tops, as well as the bottoms of the net doors, so they can be opened from the top, and one can reach inside. The end covers, or awnings, will also allow one to unzip up top and reach inside and underneath the peaks. So the plan is to reach inside, underneath the peaks, and attach the upper pole tips to the elbows. The tip inserts are drilled out to have a snug press fit over the Ti rod so everything will stay in place during pitching. With the elbows in place, the bottom ends of the poles will be inserted in the receptors (instead of the usual grommets). Once all four bottom ends are in the receptors, the tapes from the receptors to the ladderlocks sewn to the canopy corners are tightened up (not captured in the photos - lousy photographer). As the canopy rises, lines from the 4 bottom floor corners to the receptors will hold the pole bottom receptors in place so the poles cannot spread wider than the intended arc. That's a mouthful, but once the upper pole tips are fixed to the internal elbows, it won't look much different than any other dome of similar design going up. Guess that's why a video of the pitch is intended. Will the plan work? Pretty sure.
"sure you've thought of tons of options for the awnings already."
"Pertex Endurance or Epic fabric could be a solution ..."
Something like the GG One awning in the front, and at the rear, a fairly common triangular awning, such as the ones on the Hubba, or the Rainbow. Gave up on Epic Malibu because of the weight and almost total loss of water resistance when the surface tension is lost at around 1500mm HH. Also, polyester Malibu would probably not stretch enough for this design. From Alan Dixon's article on this site, the urethane coated WPB's appear to transmit vapor only when sufficient humidity pressure is built up; as with a jacket, for example. So, it will be just the best waterproof sil available for the canopy, and more sil or one of the Cubens for the awnings - not sure yet.
"fabric must be 6 ounces"
"I wonder how it would do in wind?"
"What happens if wind blows rain in the sides?"
The sil is ca. 2005 40 den 1.36 oz from Quest. Expect under 2# total, but have expected before. So it's a wait and see on the weight.
This design was quite a bit more rigid and stable than the single cross domes I tried. Once full size frames were built, realized that none of the single cross two pole domes had much rigidity rotationally, no matter what gimmicks were tried, and strong winds could raise heck with them. Even strung with all the lines, this frame wobbled like the dashboard doll in the BPL store:
This XX frame, once the the canopy is stretched over it, is rock solid, both rotationally and front to back; but there is slight side-to-side sway when pushed from the sides; hence, the loops for the side tie-outs from the pole crossing points. Only concern about the wind is the need for good ventilation at the front; so if the wind shifts all the way to the front of the tent, the canopy will baloon. Front and rear guys from the awnings in addition to the side-to-side guys should keep the tent from blowing away, but yes, balooning can be a problem when camping in exposed locations. A taut canopy, as this one has, helps a lot with that, though.
The alternative is to run the canopy and the awning down to the ground, as TT did with the second version of the Scarp, and as with the superlight Terra Nova tents.
Have no desire to camp in a sweat lodge, so having none of that. Older tents, with no more coverage than planned for this one, have kept me dry and resisted wind blown rain in exposed areas so extreme that the PU fabric coatings failed before any water blew in from under the edges or awnings. So IMO, total coverage for 3-season shelters is over-rated, is more psychological than practical, and just makes folks uncomfortable in foul weather due to the lack of ventilation. Even in heavy snow, I'd be very worried about air quality with total coverage covered by a foot or two of snow.
But please note: This design can readily be done with total coverage for those so inclined.