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Lengthwise vs widthwise baffles for Quilt?
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z jack
(zoharj) - F
Lengthwise vs widthwise baffles for Quilt? on 03/29/2011 19:59:17 MDT Print View

I am thinking of making my second quilt and am considering running the baffles lengthwise instead of widthwise. One of the problems i have with my current quilt is that while sleeping on my side the down tends to fall to the edges and leaves me less insulated on top. I figure it makes more sense to run the baffles along the contours of my body IE lengthwise.

Additionally I think for the bag will be more versatile as in winter i can push the down towards the feet and put on a jacket for the torso.

What do you all think?

Edited by zoharj on 02/21/2012 16:54:33 MST.

drowning in spam
(leaftye) - F

Locale: SoCal
Re: Lengthwise vs widthwise baffles for Quilt? on 03/29/2011 20:35:21 MDT Print View

Is your quilt going to be tapered, and if so, how will you arrange the baffles to account for the taper?

If you're worried about shifting down, you could use slimmer baffles. Instead of 6" apart, maybe try 4" apart.

Andrew Schriner
(lettheguydance) - F

Locale: Midwest
Lengthwise vs widthwise baffles for Quilt? on 03/29/2011 21:00:09 MDT Print View

I think your reasoning is right on. I say go for it.

More horizontal baffles doesn't solve the problem of down shifting sideways off the top and down to the sides.


Edited by lettheguydance on 03/29/2011 21:01:34 MDT.

Buck Stolberg
(bstolberg) - MLife

Locale: Harlem
Lengthwise Baffles Work! on 03/29/2011 21:23:16 MDT Print View

I made a quilt with lengthwise baffles and it worked out very well, except for a few problems I created.

The width shortened up a bit from the baffling, so you may want to start with a full roll width of 58" of whichever material you use. I had cut it for 50" plus seam allowances, but as it was I could just barely fit it around me without moving. It worked out, but I just couldn't move. I am 6' 180# for reference.

I did a differential cut for baffle height, with the baffles from side to side in inches being 1-2-3-4-4-4-3-2-1 with a 5" spacing between so that the majority of the down stayed on top. That worked out really well. Loft on top is around 5" and the part you stuff under you is much less. Very warm.
-Being able to shift down from top to bottom: it works out if you are wearing a down jacket to sleep. You can theoretically shift more down over your legs for the night. I never had to do this (partly because I overstuffed way too much), but it could be almost like a half bag.

I tried to taper the bottom, but cut it down from 50" to 30" instead of 40" due to a copying error. Way too much taper. It kind of looks like the bottom of a wafflecone when closed and is unusable. You may want to just avoid this step. Sewing the baffles into the angle at the bottom wasn't a problem, just stitch all the way to the end.

There are some good step by step processes on the forums I followed which helped out immensely. The lengthwise baffles are very long at ~80". I used some 1/4" masking/sewing tape to lay out where the baffles went when the top & bottom pieces were on the floor. Then I rolled it up lengthwise, sat it in my lap, and sewed the baffles (mesh) in bit by bit just pushing the completed part away from the machine. It's a long stitch, so you'll need a breather after each one. A beer made it go faster for me without quality control issues.

I have pictures of the all the sewing steps somewhere, but I can't find them after searching. They can explain this much better.

tom jacks
(surviving) - F

Locale: los angeles
reply on 03/30/2011 20:39:26 MDT Print View

it may be happens accident,so we just think it is a piece of cake.