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Comparison of Alcohol stoves
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Dwight Shackelford
(zydeholic) - F

Locale: San Francisco Bay Area
Comparison of Alcohol stoves on 10/09/2006 20:45:45 MDT Print View

Has anyone done an objective comparison/evaluation of the different DIY alcohol stove designs out there?

Seems like half of them claim to be "the most efficient".

On the Sgt. Rock Ion stove, does anyone know if the flames are supposed to come out of the center hole, or the smaller holes around the center hole?

E. A.
(yalacasa) - F

Locale: Cheeseland-Midwest
Re: Comparison of Alcohol stoves on 10/10/2006 23:00:23 MDT Print View

I use a modified Pepsi Can stove from PCThiker.com:

http://www.pcthiker.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=72&forum=DCForumID4&omm=1&viewmode=threaded

and there is a better picture here:

http://madscience.livejournal.com/311589.html

In that model a coin is used to block the fill hole to create better pressurized jets, I guess. Anyone else use this one? Only need tools and two pop cans.

Dwight Shackelford
(zydeholic) - F

Locale: San Francisco Bay Area
design ideas` on 10/10/2006 23:30:17 MDT Print View

Is it true that the hotter the incoming air, the better the stove works? Seems I read that somewhere.

I had an idea last night for preheating the intake air.

Dwight Shackelford
(zydeholic) - F

Locale: San Francisco Bay Area
thanks for the links on 10/10/2006 23:37:35 MDT Print View

Thanks for those links. I'm kinda working up to trying to do the pop can thing.

E. A.
(yalacasa) - F

Locale: Cheeseland-Midwest
Re: thanks for the links on 10/11/2006 08:03:52 MDT Print View

Real quick: I ended up using a small pineapple can (50 cents) for a stand. Simple: take off lid. Use church key to punch holes in upper portion and lower portion. Voila. I did go one step further. For $5 at a hardware store I bought a kit for sealing stoves, contained: fiberglass rope, and adhesive. With this I put three little wads of rope to the bottom of the stand to use as a wick. 10 second light off!! Pictures to come...

Dwight Shackelford
(zydeholic) - F

Locale: San Francisco Bay Area
fiberglass on 10/11/2006 19:54:49 MDT Print View

So, anything billed as fiberglass is inflammable? I almost bought some fiberglass screen but decided on aluminum instead. Couldn't find brass. I wonder if the aluminum will oxidize away quicker than the fiberglass screen.

E. A.
(yalacasa) - F

Locale: Cheeseland-Midwest
Re: fiberglass on 10/11/2006 22:35:22 MDT Print View

The fiberglass wads only hold a flame for about 25 seconds (WAG) which is long enough to heat the fuel in the stove to a point where it exits under pressure and "contribute" a flame to the pressurized fuel.

What I like about the stove design is that it does not need mesh, or fiberglass to burn. Originally, I would dribble fuel down the sides of the can and light it with the fill hole uncovered, then tried to throw the coin on, which if you have ever played tiddly winks, hardly ends up covering the fill hole.

I would highly recommend you try the pressurized Pop can stove. I used a dictionary, a box cutter, and a Dremmil with a thin drill bit, and needle nose pliers. Cheap and easy.

Edited by yalacasa on 10/11/2006 22:36:21 MDT.

Dwight Shackelford
(zydeholic) - F

Locale: San Francisco Bay Area
stoves on 10/11/2006 23:57:26 MDT Print View

Well, I bought some JB Weld and some blades tonight, so I'm getting closer.

I was fooling with this other thing I'm working on. I can get some boiling in 8 minutes, or 195F simmering for 28 minutes. .66 oz fuel, no heat shield. Optimal conditions.

What is the optimal distance from a stove to the pot for heating efficiency?