Does the tang come out the end of the handle like a Fallkniven F1? If not, you would be smacking the handle - could crack?

"Does the tang come out the end of the handle like a Fallkniven F1? If not, you would be smacking the handle - could crack?"

Why would you be striking anywhere near the handle when batoning with a knife?

@James - for splitting wood with the knife vertically. The F1 permits it as the tang extends from the handle and you can strike it hard with a small log.

David,
You probably already know this, but the Mora Classics don't have "true" full tangs. The older ones had rat tail tangs that ran the length of the handle, and the newer ones generally have partial tangs (3/4 length). Regardless, they've been strong enough for most general uses.

I've also always been a fan of Fallkniven, though I carry a lighter blade these days.

Thanks Ike for the clarification - I was just curious about the length of the tang.

The tang on the wooden handled Mora's tapers down in a couple steps and does reach the end of the handle. In a strict sense, I would define "full tang" as the blade steel extending all the way to the end of the handle, with close to the same thickness and width as the blade. The handles on a full tang knife are typically slabs of material (scales) that is riveted or screwed in place. Some modern variation have the handle material molded on.

I see batoning as a marginal technique when using a knife, and particularly with a small blade. It is fine if done with care and discretion, but you could find yourself without a cutting tool when you break your blade-- a bad thing if you are in a situation where you need it to survive. I would baton wood with a diameter that is about the same as the depth of the blade, leaving plenty of blade length for striking.

My hunch is that most breakage occurs from prying and twisting movements in an attempt to complete splitting a stick. Making small kindling and getting to dry inner wood for fire-starting is good, but I would stay away from the heavier stuff, leaving that to a light folding saw, which is faster, safer, lighter, and less expensive than a large knife.

You can baton chips out of a larger log, making beaver-like notches in the wood. Again, the breakage occurs when you try to pry a big chip out. I think it is better to start a notch and break the stick off. If you can get a split started, you can use a rock or another stick as wedges to complete the split in larger stuff.

It might be difficult to break the blade tip of the F1 even prying:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hICHvMvkRIA&feature=fvst

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LT-WBngyKFQ

I've owned an F1 and it is an excellent knife, but it is much heavier and more expensive than the Mora 2/0--- hardly an apples and apples comparison. The 2/0 Mora is about one step up from a paring knife and good for food prep and general cutting chores, repairs, whittling and the like. Keep in mind that it is 2oz and about 8" long with the sheath. The blade is the size of my forefinger! I think it is an UL classic.

I'm not really comparing them - just adding to the tang discussion.

3oz won't break my back, by the way, for a more robust knife. Darn, I just compared them.

I think you guys should be more worried about damaging the edge than a complete failure. Scandi's are known to have fragile edges compared to a full flat with a secondary edge or a convex. Might want to convex the edge really good, making it a sort of scandivex.

I took off the belt loop on my knife, ran some old inner tube strands around the handle and pinch some cord under the inner tube strands. Makes it more comfortable as a neck knife, and I can also use the innertubes as tinder.