Pictures Remote Canister Stove
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Mark Holland
(antipodes) - MLife
Pictures Remote Canister Stove on 10/03/2006 23:43:17 MDT Print View

Sorry about the previous thread {please delete if possiblStove c Pick up tube shown inside Fly spray canisterStoveStove c Canister in Gas Feed Positione still learning] Please see pictures of my latest remote canister stove using a Clippard MNV 4 K needle valve and featuring a pre heat tube .

As in a previous post I have switched to using fly spray canisters as they are lighter and have one huge advantage . This is demonstrated in one of my pictures and shows an inside view of the top of the canister. Note the right angle nylon suction tube which goes nearly to the inside of the wall of the can , and is always aligned by the manufacturer with the cut out in the mating flange on the top of the can. This means that with the can lying down and the cut out UP you have gas feed , and with the cut out DOWN a liquid feed. This gives the equivalent feed of a Coleman Max but is more versatile and cheaper, and in summer liquid feed is not necessary. Kovea make these spray cans in a 20/80 blend so for those not refilling winter use is still possible. Because the can is lying down it is stable and cannot fall over , also access to the control valve is unimpeded.

I had to make an adaptor to mate with these cans and this is pictured with the Clippard valve mounted on top. This valve has a lock ring and I find this very useful for extra fine adjustment.

The stove weighs 4.5 oz and sits on a platform made from corrugated plastic as used by signwriters. This makes the stove very stable and also both insulates and reflects heat upwards. It weighs just over 1/2 oz so I feel it is worthwhile.

The stove legs swivel out and then lock into place making a very rigid and strong unit in spite of the fact the wire used is only 2 mm bicycle spoke wire.

The pre heat tube is refrigeration 3 mm copper tubing and I have silver braised a short lenght of stainless tubing between it and the gas hose as I have found in previous stove making efforts that stainless is a poor conductor of heat compared with brass or copper so this reduces the heat the rubber gas hose has to withstand. The gas hose is merely automotive vacuum hose and this has been very successful. You may note that at the exit point of the hose from the stove I have extended the stainless steel plate to protect this area from the heat above.

For those of you who still wish to use threaded canisters the easiest way to do this is to use a small stove designed to top mount on a canister. Split the stove by unscrewing the air mix tube and burner and by getting a machine shop to match the thread on the air mix tube on a small cylinder of stainless and then by mounting this and the jet in this cylinder you have the burner sorted, and by blocking the hole in the top of the on/off valve { I often use an empty 22 case } and adding a 3 mm spigot for the gas hose you have a remote canister stove . I use solder on the on /off valve assembly as this area never gets hot. Pictures available.

I have made a wire to fill the lumen of the gas hose. I used motorcycle throttle cable wire as it is multi stranded and very flexible. I have found that reducing the dead space in a liquid feed stove improves valve response.Folded StoveComplete Kit

Roger Caffin
(rcaffin) - BPL Staff - MLife

Locale: Wollemi & Kosciusko NPs, Europe
re stove - brilliant on 10/04/2006 04:51:47 MDT Print View

Hi

Very nice - what a pity I couldn't include it in the article on reducing weight in winter stoves! An excellent example.

That's a Bluet burner - right? What sort of boil time can you get from it? I have a couple, but thought they were a bit slow - I think.

I would love more information about the valve you are using - like where does it come from, and the hose you are using - where does it come from too.

Cheers
Roger Caffin
roger@backpackinglight.com