Well, you could leave most of the stakes behind with Oli's tent also, and it would be much easier to make. Maybe two pieces of silnylon, three max, (not counting reinforcement patches) and no catenary seam to deal with.
In the picture of the Nightwing, there is one pole at the front, right in the middle of the entrance. There is also a reference to a "tripod" design, so I'm not sure if it is intended to have an A-frame entrance or not. But if not, not so good. With the tarp wall coming right down to the ground, there will be plenty of condensation on it, and if you have to squeeze around that pole in the front, you will get many doses of it. Oli was camping on the arctic tundra, where the winds probably helped a lot with the condensation.
This brings to mind that Oli's tarp also comes all the way to the ground, with no ventilation in the rear. There was a reference in his article to a link concerning dealing with condensation. Might be worth following up. Raises the question whether any tarp that is not raised off the ground can be livable. Used to call them 'tube tents.' A friend purchased a 6MD pyramid (Oasis?) tent that she felt was a steam bath, especially in the rain, partly because her hiking pole did not extend long enough to lift the tent so that the bottom edges of the walls were suspended well off the ground, as the design allowed. So for hiking around here, I think Oli's tent would also have to have some kind of ventilation designed in the rear, as the Nightwing does. Whatever you decide, you might want to consider keeping the bottom edges of the walls off the ground, with some netting underneath between the floor wall and the canopy, as in the Oasis, many Tarptents, and the GG One.
Suggest caution purchasing silnylon if you don't have any of the oldy but goody "wet look" stuff that Roger Caffin talks about. I think the Thru-Hiker and Quest first stuff is probably OK, but is not as good as the old stuff, and some of the silnylon currently sold leaks, Rockywood's 'utrasil' and some seconds I have purchased from OWF being just two examples. Eventually we will have a very light WPB fabric that is very air permeable and water resistant, and all these concerns will be history. The Columbia treatment described in the latest BPL fabric article sounds promising; but Columbia is not exactly on the cutting edge of lightweight development.
The talk about snowloading left me cold. Any piece of fabric suspended from two points over that long a distance is going to be more limited in ability to deflect snow, or driving rain for that matter. Don't think people always realize the force created by wind driven rain - some of the shower test links on the Luxe website show what it can do to even a multi-pole dome tent. The A-frame pole setup on Oli's tent will do better shedding rain and snow in the front; and the hoop, while presenting a less peaked surface toward the rear, shortens the length of unsupported ridgeline and appears to keep the canopy really taut. Or maybe you could put one of Oli's elongated hoops under the middle of the Nightwing.
The 6MD design does have the advantage of providing a complete pattern with all the pieces laid out exactly - no guesswork or need to calculate the catenary cut or the shape of the pieces. Suppose your choice should be guided by how much experience you have with shaped tarp fabrication.
Recently purchased a pair of LL Bean alu/carbon snowshoe poles, a new product made by Komperdell, because they were under 8 oz each, better designed and a lot sturdier than my old poles of similar weight, all carbons also made by Komperdell. Know that 7-8 oz is quite heavy compared to some of the poles available, but the weight does not bother me in the least, and I like having something as sturdy as possible.
The reason I mention these poles is that they extend to a really long length, around a max of 57" if I recall correctly, and would make a great A-frame front for a tarptent with a quite large entrance. Downside is they don't telescope very short, which is not an issue for me, as I drive cross-country - no airplanes for me anymore; and only use one pole anyway, so as to keep the other hand free to hold the leashes for one or both of my shelties.
Also think a snapped in floor is good, especially if there is no netting between the floor and the tarp wall, because it can allow a little ventilation between the tarp wall and the floor between the snaps. Also makes for easy replacement when the light weight floor wears out, as they are bound to do. Used a snapped in floor once, and had no problem with bugs crawling in between the floor and the tarp wall. We used netting suspended over our beds in the service, and the mosquitos were not smart enough to crawl in under it at the bottom. Although they did just that at my home when there was a half inch gap at the top of a screen door. Fixed it.
I think you were one of those on another thread who advised against overdoing the planning and just getting projects done. Whatever you decide on, good luck with it.