I have been told about and used silicone calk mixed with various thinners.
Calk: Good grade, clear, 100% silicone (GE or the like.)
Thinner: Mineral Spirits, White Gas, Paint Thinner, etc. I like mineral spirits, it has a medium work time span. Be prepared to sacrifice the brush. Silicone should never be used with any wood products, varnish, lacquer, shelac. And, even acetone will not clean it. Soo, think ahead about anything else (dry bags? Backpack?)
A lot of formula's I have used. 10:1 to 20:1 for recoating old floors seems about right. Depends on if the floor is streatched, worn or damaged. Do both sides:
Hange it up, upside down
It is also non-stick after drying...makes a nice floor. Spinnaker + coating weighs less than PU stuff and is just as waterproof, though not as strong. A few stripes painted on a new floor will make it less slippery.
This is the same stuff I use for seam sealing (at about 2: 1 or 3:1.)
But there is a bit of weight penalty. It will also take a couple days to a week to dry completely...depends...humidity, temperature, wind, etc. Once it starts curing,
it can be rained on, doesn't seem to be effected at all.
Some people have used talc or chalk dust after it has dried to prevent it from sticking to itself the first couple times out. I never have had this problem if I let it dry well.
My thoughts only . . .