I didn't want to steal S Long's thunder in his own Denali topic, so I thought I'd start my own.

I'm also going to Denali, may/june next year. It will be a guided trip (AMS) on the West Butress. Going guided means I have to fit the group gear in my gearlist even if I don't know yet what it is exactly (I've made an educated guess though).

All input for this gearlist is appreciated. I'd like to point out that my sleeping system isn't final yet - and because of that I may change my top insulating clothing as well.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=tCpFiP7pyPZCnKfDc67A5zQ&hl=en&authkey=CMKp2rYP#gid=0

Thanks!

Edited by Sieto on 11/27/2010 02:57:59 MST.

You will probably need a warmer bag. Even in Late June high camp can be -40F (~-40C). Also use a real ascender, see my comments on the other Denali thread. No need for the elite. Take more lighters (2-3). No climbing helmet needed, anything that could fall on your head, like ice blocks will be as big as a house. Your pack suspension may not be comfortable enough. You will have a big load (60-70lbs) and the sled weight (40-50lbs) pulling on you.

Edited by ben-ln on 11/27/2010 23:29:03 MST.

Thanks for your comments Ben.
Yes, I've been thinking of getting an overbag, or use extra clothing to beef up my bag's rating. At the moment I think I'll go for the overbag.
The ascender sounds like a good idea too. It is 150grams extra, but I should be more efficient. Your picture says a lot. There's always that balance between lightweight, and good enough for the conditions. Maybe Denali is not the place to test that balance to extremes ;-)
Extra lighter: check. I'm going guided, so likely not the only one to have one (or two) on me.
Helmet: I would love to leave it behind, but it's mandatory (guess that's part of going guided...)
I'll give the pack some thought, but am not planning on the loads you're talking about. I'm shooting for a max of 40lbs pack-weight, with maybe a few days of more (e.g. days without sled, going to top camp). On those days I'll bear some uncomfort.
Thanks again, keep 'm coming!

Edited by Sieto on 11/28/2010 02:31:12 MST.

I think you will find that on guided trips you will be forced to carry huge amounts of group gear. Here is a picture right before hitting the fixed lines on the move to high camp (17K). It was my first time on the West Buttress and I was with AAI. You have no choice on how much you carry, food, fuel, group gear. I had about 85lbs in this picture. Note 2 gallons (yes gallons) of fuel. My first and only time I have been guided in the mountains.

Hi everybody,

I finished my Denali trip a few weeks ago, and thought I would let you know how it went.
We had great weather, the trip was short - only 16 days, but we did have 3 weather days at high camp though. After that short delay there was a window of 1 day to go to the summit, which we did; we summited 6th june. For those interested, I have a trip report on my blog; www.vanderheide.net

As far as gear and weight of gear is concerned; my personal gear, 34 pounds (excluding all food & water, fuel, tent, shovel), was 13 pounds lighter then the next lightest, and 17 pounds lighter then the heaviest in the group. I hindsight I feel I could've shaved maybe a pound or so off that, but I also would have added a few items (e.g. an extra base-layer for comfort). I never was cold or unsafe, because of my choices in gear.

When I find the time, I'll post the final gear-list here too.

on summiting and even more-so on your safe return.

Congrats on your accomplishment.