Snuck away and did a hiking and packrafting loop in the far NW corner of the park.
Video summary: http://vimeo.com/15259573
The colors and scenery were superlative. The cold damp weather and high water made things much faster than I had planned, so an overnight turned into a day trip. Still fun, and no other people out and about!
For planning purposes, know that a trail not on maps (though it can be seen from GoogleEarth) goes NNW from the Kashenehn patrol cabin all the way to the border (and beyond). A very nice trail, and recently maintained, in fact.
Enjoy the season, there is already snow in the mountains.