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Ted E
(denver_whitest185) - MLife

Locale: CO
adding gear for mountaineering? on 07/25/2010 20:20:48 MDT Print View

just wondering what people would consider adding to their basic kit to extend it for mountaineering.

Ice Axe
Crampons (which ones)
Helmet
rope, harness, carabiners, etc.

I recently climbed Gannett and the only extra stuff i brought was an ice axe, katoola microspikes, and a locking carabiner in case i had to help with a rescue. If i had done it again (solo) i would have much rather had some real crampons and I would have defiantly brought a helmet. if i had gone with someone else, i would have wanted to bring a double rope and a pair of harnesses.

Is there anything else i should consider? what does everyone else think?

Elena Lee
(lenchik101) - F - MLife

Locale: Pacific Northwest (USA)
additional gear on 07/26/2010 17:46:37 MDT Print View

it depends where and when you are going. i went to the top of Adams wearing my yaktracks but definitely needed my Stubai Ultralight crampons for Mt. Rainier. I wouldn't take my tarp to camp on a glacier. So it depends on the situation. for a regular glacier non-technical trip other things that come to mind:

-glacier glasses
-balaclava
-sturdy waterproof boots
-gaiters
-real goretex/event outer shell
-mitts
-balaclava/hat
-ski goggles
-extra trash bag for melting snow
-heavy duty zinc sunblock
-tibloc ascender
-prussiks
-belay device
-snow anchor such as a picket
-snowshoes in winter conditions
-down parka
-webbing links
-thin torso-sized foam pad to supplement my thermarest since i'm a cold sleeper on snow.
-extra navigation: wands/gps/compass

there is an article somewhere on this website called "Doing Denali light" which was a great source for me in assembling a mountaineering gear kit.

Sieto van der Heide
(Sieto)

Locale: The Netherlands
gear for a climbing course on 07/27/2010 11:09:03 MDT Print View

I'm compiling a gearlist for a course on alpine climbing I'm doing in the Swiss alps. This is the section about my climbing gear, weight is in grams:

Crampons, 12 pt, anti balling Steel 1100
Crampon Bag (reservehanddoekje) 25
Ice Axe, 70cm Camp Corsa Nanotech 290
Ice Screw, 22cm Black Diamond Express 190
Climbing Harness Camp Air CR 250
Climbing Helmet 400
Carabiners, HMS (Belay Master?) DMM Sentinel HMS 52
Carabiners, Locking Wild Country Neon (screwgate) 42
Carabiners, Snapper Wild Country Helium (wiregate) 32
Descender Petzl Reverso3 77
Ascender Wild Country Ropeman mk2 85
Prussik Device Petzl TiBloc 40
Sling 60cm Mammut 'Contact' Dyneema 60 (8mm) 20
Sling 120cm Mammut 'Contact' Dyneema 120 (8mm) 35
Prussik Ropes 5mm rope 50
Trekking Poles, collapsible Fizzan Compact Trekking Poles 166

Regarding crampons; Aluminium crampons are much lighter then steel ones, but if you encounter mixed terrain, alu will become dull very fast. I've use BD Sabretooths in the past, they're good (steel). I've also used Camp XLC Nanotecht alu crampons, which are good, when you know you're in the right terrain for them. When in doubt: take steel ones.

Edited by Sieto on 07/27/2010 11:14:28 MDT.

David Olsen
(oware)

Locale: Steptoe Butte
Re: adding gear for mountaineering? on 07/27/2010 11:18:40 MDT Print View

Glacier travel, as others gear lists show, takes all the
gear you need for crevasse extraction. A snow climb like
Gannett, you've pretty much covered it. Fourth and fifth
class climbs you will need protection.

Be more specific about the type of mountaineering.

David Olsen
(oware)

Locale: Steptoe Butte
Re: Re: adding gear for mountaineering? on 07/27/2010 11:54:22 MDT Print View

For guiding groups on 4 class peaks and setting up backcountry 5th class top ropes climbs in CA.

Guides and Students each
2 locking carabiners
webbing or harness
1 long and 1 short prussic cord
1 long sling
1 ice axe each (early season), late season 1 per group for step cutting belayed snow gully crossings.
Helmet
No crampons

Guides add each
6 non lockers
6 pieces pro
1 runner
rock shoes
rope

Edited by oware on 07/27/2010 11:59:42 MDT.

ROBERT TANGEN
(RobertM2S) - M

Locale: Lake Tahoe
Step cutting? on 07/27/2010 20:19:20 MDT Print View

Re: Ice axe, "1 per group for step cutting belayed snow gully crossings." David, could you expand on that a little?

Douglas Ray
(dirtbagclimber)

Locale: Pacific Northwest
Re:"adding gear for mountaineering" on 07/27/2010 20:38:59 MDT Print View

I guess it depends on how far you take thea mountaineering. Personally I think I've added:

Ice axe

Ice tools

Crampons

Helmet

Two harnesses

A different backpack

10 ice screws

3 Pickets

9 Cams

20 Nuts

7 Hexes

about 70 non-locking carabiners

about 8 locking carabiners

20-ish runners

4 Climbing ropes

Helmet

2 Pairs of boots

Rock shoes

Neoprene gloves

Nut tool

5 Pitons

and probably some things I forgot