One ounce, one piece windscreen and potstand that rolls up to fit inside a Snow Peak Trek 700 Mug. Uses braided stainless steel wire for support instead of tent stakes. No parts to fuss with, strong, light and very stable. Same concept as the tent stake design but integrated the potstand and used braided wire instead.
The wire was nylon coated so the discoloration is just the melted nylon coating, please ignore it, I didn't bother stripping it off first.
I tested this on my home gas oven/stove and boiled 16oz. of water 5 times in row on med-high heat (way more heat than any alcohol stove produces) and the braided wire held up perfect. Here's some more pics:
Rolled up inside mug, note that the wire does not need to be loosened or removed, the way it is laced allows it to loosen with the rolled windscreen:
View from the bottom (that's the bottom of the 700 mug on the potstand wire, very stable!):
View of the side showing joining and lacing:
1. Windscreen 28.8 grams - .012" Aluminum Sheet 13 3/4" X 4 1/8". Twenty-six 1/8" bottom air holes punched every 1/2", 1/4" up from bottom edge, starting at center of material which is 6 7/8" in from either side. Eight 1/16" lacing holes, 2 1/2" up from bottom edge punched every 1 23/32" (1.72") from center.
Note: when punching holes from the center remember to half the distance on either side of center for your first hole on each side of center, this is because you'll be punching one hole on either side of center and if you don't half it, you'll end up with twice the distance on the holes next to center.
Two 1/8" deep slits cut into each end edge to join the ends. Rolled around a spray paint can when finished to form it into a cylinder.
2. Potstand 0.4 grams - 35" of braided stainless steel bead stringing wire from craft store (Beadalon 0.18" thick, 19 strand flexible, 26 lb. breaking strength). Laced to form a square grid and ends knotted together at first and last holes. The lacing pattern is important because it does not bind as much as other ways, so when the windscreen is rolled the wire shifts around and loosens as the circumfrence shrinks, but pops back into place when opened.
Lacing pattern (assuming the seam where the ends meet in the windscreen is the front and facing you):
1. Tie a bowline knot in one end of the wire. Now, with the other end in your hand, start at first hole on right side of the seam where the ends of the windscreen meet.
From the outside go straight in and across to the opposite hole in the rear, pulling through all your slack, so that the bowline is snug up against the outside of the windscreen.
2. Now go to the right out of the rear hole into the rearmost-side hole and from there across to the opposite rearmost-side hole, pulling through all the slack.
3. Again go to the right out of the rearmost side hole and into the the left-rear hole and across to the opposite front-left hole.
4. Again go to the right out of the front-left hole into the closer left-side hole and across to the opposite closer right-side hole.
5. Finally, tighten up any loose areas and tie off the ends using the bowline you tied in the beginning of the wire and a couple half-hitches or tautline hitch in the trailing end.
The wire is so light that you can carry an extra 35" backup just in case. I have not experimented with other braided wire, but I'm sure there are others out there. I thought about using a .025 7 strand because it would hold up to the heat better, but this thin 19 strand stuff is surpassing my expectations, so I haven't bothered.