Whereas the handles on my Snow Peak 700 26 oz. mug were always too hot too touch and the lid weighed almost as much as the mug itself, I decided to make some modifications - in particular removing the handles and making a new lid.
Here is a pic of the finished product, before the mug with handles and lid weighed 124.0 grams/4.37 oz. and after with new lid and no handles it weighed 79.7 grams/2.81 oz. That's about a 35% reduction in weight if my math is correct.
The lids side by side:
The new lid stays on pretty well too!
I made the lid out of 0.12" thick aluminum shim stock from Mcmaster and used a three inch piece of Spectra cord for the lid grab handle. I made two knots in the cord on either side of the hole so it stays put and vertical. After hours of use, the handle shows no signs of wear. I think the lid dissapates the heat well enough that the cord stays cool. I can easily handle the entire lid instantly when it is removed from the mug full of boiling water.
To make the lid, I used an old crusty circle making tool set to 2 1/8" radius or so and just rolled it around the sheet until it cut through the soft aluminum. Note that I left two 1/4" nubs 1/2" apart in the circle by not cutting into the sheet at those points. That allowed me to have similar lid locks to the original lid. I used a pair of the awesome snips (SHR-532.00) recommended by the brasslite guy to cut around the nubs. Next, I put the old lid bottom up with the aluminum disk on top (matching up centers, see note at end on how to do this neatly) in a c-clamp and then secured the clamp in a vise. This allowed me to work the alum. disk with a screen roller tool (used to insert window screen rubber into the screen frame) and a small hammer. I pounded and rolled for about 30 minutes until the alum. formed into the original lid. Made me dream of a nice Pexto beading machine that night.
You have to be careful with the alum. because it can tear easily, hence I did not use any heat to make it form easier. Just mildly apply pressure and work the piece into shape.
Next, when it was 90% there, I transfered the new lid to the mug and did some fine tuning on it. The ti is so hard that the alum. forms to it easily without damaging the ti. Finally, I used a hobby knife with the sythe type blade (convex blade) and trimmed the overlap to just under the rolled rim of the mug (with the lid on the mug still), which makes the lid stay on well when the water is bubbling.
Removing the handles was quick and easy with a Dremel and one heavy duty emery disc cutting wheel. I cut into the plate that holds the handles to the mug at each of the eight spot welds in four spots forming a square exactly on the edge of each spot weld. You have to use patience and care here not to go too deep into the plate or you will dip into the mug surface (like I did, umm. where's my JB Weld). When you have gingerly grinded into the plate about 1/64" pry it up a little and see if it tears up around the spot weld. Do this with each one. Later you can go back with a file and level the extra metal at each weld to get a flush surface.
If you don't need to back fill with some JB Weld, then the next step is to repolish the mug and new lid. I used the three step synthetic abrasive pads sold at welding supply stores (brown, gray and green .75 cents each). Starting with the roughest one first and working through to the finest one. Wash with soap and water before using. That's it!
I'm working on a multi-use handle/pot-lifter/spork-holder/toothbrush-holder made from a 6" ti stake, so I guess I'll have to factor a bit of the stake weight into the mug later. Let me know what you think.
Individual item weights AFTER mods:
Aluminum Lid with spectra pot handle: 7.6 grams - 5 TIMES LIGHTER!
700 Mug with plate and handles removed: 72.1 grams.
Individual item weights BEFORE mods:
OEM mug with handles and plate: 90.3 grams/3.19 ounces.
OEM lid: 33.5 grams.
OEM handles (pair): 14.4 grams.
OEM welded plate: 5.0 grams.
How to find the center of a disk? Dr. Math Knows.