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Climbing Rack on 05/17/2010 14:18:04 MDT Print View

My rack is going on an UL Diet!RACK NOM NOM NOM

19 Biners = just inside 1LB.
Just Sharing. That is all!


Michael Febbo
(febbom) - F
UL rack on 05/17/2010 14:32:21 MDT Print View

Am I seeing the old style BD Hotwires and Camp Nano's? What are you going to use for slings- Mammut Contact?

Nick Badyrka
(oldcrank) - F

Locale: Northwest
light biners on 05/17/2010 21:45:58 MDT Print View

I find the small biners hard to clip, but if your rack is large the weight savings are huge. If you have to carry it into the BC then light is right.

S Long

Locale: Wasatch
RE: new rack on 05/18/2010 00:18:23 MDT Print View

I found the small 'biners hard to clip, too, especially when you are pumped. I switched mine up a little. I now use the Metolius FS 'biner on the bolt/gear side (same weight as a Camp 23 but more friendly rope-bearing surface). On the other end of the draw I use a DMM Phantom 'biner. The Phantom is still a super light 'biner but it is MUCH easier to clip the rope when you are desperate. I think my next weight reduction item will be my rope. I think the Sterling Nano (9.2 mm. in the 70 m. size) looks nice.

Christopher Plesko
(Pivvay) - F

Locale: Rocky Mountains
Re: RE: new rack on 05/18/2010 14:25:04 MDT Print View

The Phantoms are great biners as are the WC heliums. I like the Nano 23s for certain things but they're small. The FS mini's are not to my liking, much too small. I've been using the BD 10mm dyneema slings as they seem to hold up better than the Mammuts for me.

The Sterling Nano rope is soooo nice. One of my partners has a 60m one and I love climbing ice with it. They're certainly not a top rope or abused rope but for ice, alpine and hard climbs it's fantastic.

HEY on 05/19/2010 21:33:42 MDT Print View

I really like Metolius Slings but those Mammuts may make an appearance.

Yeah, a sizeable trad rack plus remote climbing spots has got me psyched!

Yeah Nanos (the rope) are nice but those Metolius biners seem too small even if you are quite dexterous.

The hotwires will be headed to my sport gear so i can recruit my BD OZ biners to compliment the Nanos.

Siggy Chaloupka
lucky climbers! on 05/20/2010 04:16:38 MDT Print View

i work at MD in Melb....we have a prodeal coming up, and all the climbing staff are cutting sick.
LOL...BD, Mammut and Petzl biners and climbing gear....30% off Wholesale for them...they are loving it!

Im tempted to buy a rack, and take up climbing!
haha, I'm so tempted....

Michael Febbo
(febbom) - F
ultralight climbing rack on 05/21/2010 00:06:51 MDT Print View

Siggy- take up climbing, THEN buy a rack... a good deal of gear choice is simply subjective preference.

Anyway, I have a cold and can’t climb so (in the spirit of this thread) I decided to weigh some biners and slings (used two Pelouze digital scales, weighed each item 3 times).

Old BD Hotwire: 44gramsm
New BD Hotwire: 38grams
BD Neutrino: 36grams
WC helium: 34 grams
BD Oz: 30 grams
Trango Superfly: 28-30grams
Old Camp Nano: 28-30grams


BD 10mm Dynex and Mammut 8mm Contact slings: 18 grams
Wild Country 15cm dogbone: 8 grams

Of the carabiners, I find the Camp to be unusable, the Heliums to be ideal for almost everything, but the Superfly and Oz biners to be ultra light while still being easy to handle and clip.

So, you can have eight alpine draws with Contact slings and Oz biners coupled with four sport draws with WC dogbones and Oz biners for a total of 896 grams (just under 2 pounds). Lightweight and still user friendly.

Oh, I’ve been using the 9.1 Beal Joker for a few years- very light, decent durability, but with a lot of rope out you can really go for a ride due to its extreme stretch. Not great for cragging, but wonderfull for extended trips.

Siggy Chaloupka
take up climbing, then get the rack on 05/21/2010 05:41:05 MDT Print View

yeah Michael, i know what u mean.

I am starting to take up climbing, just buying a pair of shoes first (any recommendations welcome! i have wide feet).

All im its so mighty tempty to buy all that gear....cos of the scha-weeet as deals!

I was tempted to get a BD iceaxe...for $30 just to hang on the wall above my bed (old display model).