I think I need to take a look at my maps before I can answer these questions. I think I may be using some names for things that are confusing. If I remember correctly, there is the Joyce Kilmer area that is more of a drive-up attraction with lots of cool old-growth. I'm assuming this is the place you're referring to about the no-camping. It's very cool but, for me at least, it's more of a stop on the way to the trail or on the way home type thing. Maybe spend a couple hours there - it can be pretty busy. The backpacking area I was referring to is, I believe, actually called the Joyce Kilmer-Slickrock Wilderness. You can definitely camp in there and it has all the sweet falls, trails, swimming, views, etc.
Citico Creek Wilderness borders this on the west side. Again, I'll have to check, but I think they're both on the same map. I want to say that you can sort of meander from one wilderness to the next. Like I said, definitely check out the Snowbird Bankcountry area - more of the good stuff.
I haven't had trouble getting lost there but I'm kind of a map nerd (I just really like 'em - not sure why) so I tend to look at them a lot while hiking :) I do remember a few moments where we had to stop and think about things and do some route-finding, but I was never concerned about my safety or anything like that. It's just part of the hike as far as I'm concerned. Bottom line, I certainly wouldn't let that issue keep me from enjoying the area. Having said that, don't be cursing my name if you get turned around out there! :) Just keep an eye on where you're at and I'm sure it'll be mighty fine.
I'll post an update on all this speculation once I can take a look at my maps on Sunday. Hopefully my memory isn't too far off and I won't have to change everything I've said. I'm jealous that you get to hike down there. I absolutely loved the trails in that area. Especially the creeks - rockhopping for hours and maybe best swimming holes I've been to. Wow...long post. Anyway, check for an update Sunday or Monday. My avatar photo was taken in Scotland in March near a place called Strathfillan. The peak is Bein Odhar and we went to the top. It was sweet. Later.