The carbon pole is the Easton FX, significantly stronger than than other carbon poles, but significantly weaker than the heavier DAC featherlight poles on the H and HP. Yet due to other design components, there is not too much weight penalty for the increased strength of the DACS. Also, note that the HP has a larger fly than the Hubba, and has windows, plus fabric instead of netting on much of the inner canopy, all of which add weight. Before deciding, I recommend weighing the different models before buying, rather than relying on the mfg. Note that weights of models can change from year to year, and from tent to tent.
For me it would depend on how long I planned to be in the bush. If you intend to be a long distance hiker, and will be out there for long periods, you might want something as bombproof as possible given your max weight limit. Saving a few ounces is not worth a blown over and broken tent, especially if the weather is rotten and likely to induce hypothermia, which can be quite deadly. As Henry Shires has mentioned on this site, four ounces is nothing more than the weight of carrying a liter bottle about 1/4 full. On the other hand, if you are just going to do overnights with the tent, and never be too far from the nearest trailhead, especially the one where your car is, you can probably just bail out if the tent is damaged beyond quick field repair.
So, the amount of tent weight you tolerate may depend on what you will be doing.
Once you have honed your skills, and survived a few of what Roger Caffin calls, "when things go wrong," (see his article on this site), then may be a good time to experiment with less durable ultra lightweight shelters, many of which, for example, will burn quickly when exposed to flame (there is an interesting video on U-Tube).
As for "freestanding," I think it depends on how much real added stability it creates. On some designs, such as the Hilleberg Suolo, all the way back to the early Jansport 3-pole domes, it provides great stability, especially if stakes pull out. With other designs, like the Hubbas, you still have to run guys to both sides of the arch pole to keep it laterally stable, and to front and back apexes to keep it from being blown forward or backwards. So "freestanding" becomes of little value if it is critical that the stakes hold anyway in a gale to keep the tent up. Yet for some reason, I still like the freestanding feature of the Hubbas. There is something to being able to set up the tent in the living room when you first get it. I had to tear myself away from these irrational feelings to switch to a Scarp that depends on a minimum of four stakes to stay up, wind or no, because logically, I know the Scarp will provide better reliability and protection than the freestanding, carbon pole dome I was using. (I usually camp in the bush, away from other folks and their fires, and do not camp in winter, so use gas canister, not liquid fuel stoves, that are more prone to flare.)
It is hard to be helpful here, because there are so many factors to balance, but hope these thoughts are of some use to you.